Saturday, November 17, 2012

Climbing Training Update 6 (11/17/12)


Training Notes:
          Needing Some Rest (11/8/12) - I have been pushing it pretty hard the last couple days, working at or near my limit a few days in a row has taken its toll on me.  Today (Thurs 11/4) I tried a couple hard routes and just wasn't "feeling it."  I think that I'll be best off taking a couple days off (Friday and Saturday) and then hitting it hard on Sunday and Monday.  I was just informed today that our Climbing Club here will be hosting Climbing TEAM try-outs next week.  So, following rest on Friday and Saturday, hard climbing on Sunday and Monday, I'll take Tuesday and Wednesday off again to be primed for the try-outs in the later part of the week.  I'll then begin my official rest week which ill include my first outdoor climbing trip and a self-assessement test as prescribed by Eric Horts book "How to Climb a 5.12".
          Alleviating Training Schedule Complications (11/15/12) - I am doing some major work towards un-complicating my training schedule.  This is not unsimilar to the changes I'm making in my diet.  There is no concrete plan at the moment, but I'll be taking the next couple week to test things out before posting a dedicated plan.  Essentially it is extremely complicated to have a huge list of things to do every day and no day ever being the same.  A routine should not be stressful or complicated in its organization, to do so is to jeopardize the longevity of the program.
          But First, A Couple Weeks of Fun (11/17/12) - Last night I participated in the University of West Georgia Climbing Club team try-outs.  The session was extremely challenging, though not impossible.  It was defiantly hard and pushed me both mentally and physically.  I'll have more on this later as the try-outs will resume after school resumes after the following Thanksgiving Break next week.  Some of my previously aimed goals for this mini-cycle were not completed.  However, I think that is important to re-invest ourselves in the love of a sport and just do it because we love it, sometimes without any particular goal in mind.  I'll begin my "official" off-season workout routine once the rock wall closes for the winter break on December 7.  In the mean time, my "goal" is to just have fun, push my limits a bit, and simply enjoy rock climbing for rock climbing's sake without trying to reach a particular goal within these next few weeks.




Diet Notes:
          Still Having Some Issues (11/13/12) - I'm still having some problems sticking to the diets I've laid out, which explains the frequent changes in order to honestly adjust when it is needed.  Look forward to the "Self Assessment" post linked above for more detail as to the new diet that I began today.  The diet portion of the post will be in retrospect, but there will be some good information there explaining the changes I've made and the psychological as well as scientific reasoning behind them.  I'll be taking the next week or two to fine tune the adjustments I've made before posting an "ironed-out" plan here.



11/4 - 11/18/12 Goals:
1 x 5.10 indoor-clean-toprope (complete date / not completed)
2 x 5.8 indoor-clean-lead (*see pyramids below for date)
4 x 5.9 indoor-clean-lead (completed date / not completed)
2 x 5.9+ indoor-clean-lead (completed / not completed)


Highest Grades Completed:
Indoor - Toprope - Dirty - 5.10
Indoor - Toprope - Clean - 5.9+
Indoor - Lead - Clean - 5.9+


Grade Pyramids (Clean - Indoor - Toprope):
5.8 (1) - 9/21
5.8 (2, 3) - 9/24
5.8 (4, 5, 6) - 9/25
5.8 (7) - 9/27
5.8 (8) - 9/28
5.9 (1) - 10/10
5.9 (2) - 10/12
5.9 (3) - 10/15
5.9 (4) - 10/17
5.9+ (1) - 10/17
5.9+ (2) - 10/17
5.10 (1) - not yet completed



Grade Pyramids (Clean - Indoor - Lead):
5.8 (1) - 11/2
5.8 (2, 3, 4) - 11/4
5.8 (5, 6) - 11/5
5.8 (7, 8) - 11/7
5.9 (1, 2) - 11/11
5.9 x (3, 4) - 11/12
5.9+ (1) - 11/7
5.9+ (2) - not yet completed


Long Yoga Session:
          This week's yoga was cut out due to some very intense climbing and the need for some total rest days.  However, the morning yoga session previously outlined were still conducted.


UWG Climbing Team Try-Outs:
Separate post coming in the future.  Link will be provided when it is completed.


Self Assessment Exam:
Separate post coming in the future.  Link will be provided when it is completed.





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