Self Assessment - Climbing Update 8

         In "How to Climb 5.12" Eric Horst details a Self Assesement Exam.  The contents of which have been copied below and include my results at the present time.  I have now been indoor rock climbing regularly for about two months and have my first outdoor climbing trip under my belt.  Taking this past Thanksgiving (much thanks indeed) break from school I've had some time to reflect on my climbing progress.


Highest Grade - Indoor / Toprope / Clean - 5.9+
Highest Grade - Indoor / Toprope / Dirty - 5.10
Highest Grade - Indoor / Lead / Clean - 5.9+
Highest Grade - Outdoor / Lead / Clean - 5.8
Highest Grade - Outdoor / Lead / Dirty - 5.8+


Self Assessment:
*answers from 0 (always) to 5 (never)
** Results in bold print

1. My footwork (use of feet) deteriorates during the hardest part of the climb - 3
2. My forearms balloon and my grip begins to fail even on routes that are easy for me - 4
3. On hard sequences, I have difficulty stepping onto critical footholds - 4
4. I get anxious and tight as I head into crux sequences - 2
5. My biceps pump out before my fore arms - 5
6. I have difficulty hanging on small, necessary-to-use holds - 2
7. I blog sequences I have wired and know by heart - 3
8. I stall at the start of crux sequences - 2
9. I climb three or four days in a row - 3
10. I get sewing-machine-leg (Elvis leg) - 4
11. I pump out on overhanging climbs no matter how big the holds - 2
12. I get out of breath when I climb - 5 
13. I make excuses for why I might fail on a route before I even begin to climb - 4
14. I miss hidden holds on routes - 2
15. I have difficulty hanging on to small sloping holds or pockets - 1
16. I grab gear instead of risking a fall trying a hard move of which I am unsure - 5
17. On a typical climb, I feel like much of my body weight is hanging on my arms - 3
18. I get very sore the day after climbing at the crags - 3
19. I have difficulty visualizing myself successfully climbing the route before I leave the ground - 4
20. I cannot reach key holds on difficult routes - 2
21. On overhanging routes I have difficulty keeping my feet from cutting loose and swinging out - 4
22. While climbing I get distracted by activity on the ground - 5
23. I have difficulty reading sequences - 3
24. I get a flash pump on the first climb of the day - 2
25. I have more difficulty climbing when people are watching - 4
26. My feet unexpectedly pop off footholds - 4
27. I experience elbow pain when I climb on a regular basis - 2
28. When lead climbing a safe route, I have difficulty pushing myself to the complete limit - 5
29. I have difficulty finding midroute rest positions and shakeouts - 4
30. My first attempt on a hard route is usually better than my second or third attempts - 2

Scoring (Higher is better, each section is out of 50 possible points)

Questions 1, 4, 7, 10, 13, 16, 19, 22, 25, 28 = Mental Score = 39 / 50 = 78%

Questions 2, 5, 8, 11, 14, 17, 20, 23, 26, 29 = Technique Score = 31 / 50 = 62%

Questions 3, 6, 9, 12, 15, 18, 21, 24, 27, 30 = Physical Score - 28 / 50 = 56%

Evaluation and Suggestions:
*Key Points / Suggestions in bold italic font

Mental Score - I scored much higher than I thought here.  I typically think of myself as a very cerebral athlete, but some aspects of climbing are a whole different ball game.  They don't really psyche me out, but sometimes I feel like I can't quite put all the peices together.  Regardless, the results of the assesement show that I'm most prepared in this category and other defficiencies must be addressed first.

Technical Score - This is about where I thought I would score.  I by no means climb "hard."  I have only been climbing (recreationally) full time for two moths, so I would certainly not expect to learn everything in that short period of time.  However, I feel that I am learning fast and making solid progress in my technical ability as a climber.

Physical Score - I was quite surprised to score this low on this section.  While I consider myself fit and am very muscular and lean, climbing fitness is totally differnt than anything I have done before.  It takes strength-to-weight ratios to an all new level.  Not only is access fat bad, but access muscle is also more weight you have to carry up the route straining your fingers, joints, and ligaments.  My low score here does not mean that I am out of shape, it simply means that my body hasn't accostomed itself to a climbing form yet.  In terms of endurance and power I do not feel that I am lacking.  But sheer finger strength is an issue considering my short, compact, and heavily muscled frame.

Notes From the Judges at my Team Try Out  - 
*Team Qualifications have not yet been posted.
          Sport - Don't be afraid to just climb, don't think too much.  Hands look solid.  Good job keeping your toes on, try to make moves faster.  Too much hesitation.  Good throws, be careful (not) to stay in one place too long.
          Bouldering - Good hands, core work is solid.  Good job keeping yourself against the boulder.  Very good sit starts.  Don't be afraid of crimps!  Make sure your feet are on before making big moves. Don't make moves bigger than they are!


Clarification of Terminology:
         I just want to make a few notes to my record keeping.  There was a bit of erroneous terminology on my part in previous posts.  The corrections are listed below, and future records will relate the change  but previously published posts will not be retroactively refurbished.
Greenpoint - clean, toprope climb, multiple attempts and beta allowed
Pinkpoint - clean lead climb, pre-placed protection, multiple attempts and beta allowed
Redpoint - clean lead climb, place pro yourself, multiple attempts allowed, no beta
Falsh - clean lead climb, first attempt, beta but no practice, place own protection
Onsight - clean lead climb, no practice or beta, place own protection