Bouldering: Training Mid-Way Point Checkin

          As of this week I'm a little over mid-way through my bouldering "training camp."  Last weekend I was corralled (albeit there wasn't much arm twisting) into going on an afternoon sport climbing trip to Sandrock, AL.  I wasn't too keen on deviating from my scheduled bouldering training, but it served as a nice little check-in and reference point.
          The outing only lasted a few hours, but some major milestones were accomplished on my behalf.  I led my first 5.10a outdoors (gear pre-placed) which was a statement in and of itself.  I had previously only climbed 5.10s indoors and this was my first outdoor attempt at that grade.  The route was dubbed "Oyster" and had three falls on the route.  The first two were due to myself getting scared just before the overhang, and again while clipping at the tip of the overhang when I didn't feel I had a solid hold.  The last fall was while mounting the overhang on a difficult heel-hook move.  Nevertheless, the route was successfully logged in my records as a "send."  I thought this to be quite a testament to my training.  If my goal over the past few weeks has been to increase power and finger strength, then I feel as if I am on the right track as you will find below.  The other members of the group, as well as myself, thought that on another day or another attempt I could have sent the route cleanly.  I'll keep that in mind for the next (of surely many) trip(s) to Sandrock.
          I also, at the very end of the day attempted to toprope a 5.11c/d.  I only got about to the first clip, but it was near dark and I was trying to climb well above my regular grade with a headlamp as the only source of light.  Bluntly, it felt pretty (insert expletive) hard, but I felt that if there had been more daylight remaining then I could have given a very honest effort at the route (called Dreamscape).
          When logging the new entries into my record books I couldn't help but compare the results from my last trip to Sandrock last November.  Then, I climbed several 5.8s, one 5.8+ and one 5.9 (neither clean), and my toprope project was a 5.10a.  Just to put that in perspective... In the past seven month I had two one-month layoffs of no climbing whatsoever, and what was my toprope project seven months ago, I had sent on lead.  During the most recent outing, my warm up was what I finished the day with on the last trip (Kennel Club, 5.8).  I did faired about the same on "My Dog Has Fleas" (5.9)[Those slopers still get me].  And I sent another 5.9+ (First Black in Office) though not cleanly.  Essentially the rundown looks like this:

• Old Average Grade:  5.8 --- New Average Grade:  5.9
• Old Highest Lead Grade:  5.9 --- New Highest Lead Grade:  5.10a
• Old Toprope Project:  5.10a --- New Toprope Project:  5.11c/d

          I certainly think that I have planned and am training appropriately for my sophomore bouldering outing that will be scheduled for early next month.  The conclusion of this series of posts will come in three parts to digest A) how my actual training differed from what was planned, B) the results of my training prior to the outing, and C) the results of the outing.  In actuality, this training camp is only one mesocycle of a complete training plan for sport climbing; part of which I have developed through my own experiences and resources but is largely based on what you will find in Eric Horst's book How to Climb 5.12.  A similar series of posts will be written to describe the next cycle's experience in preparation for a dedicated sport climbing trip (location unknown at this time).  Once that has been completed the details will be worked out for an inclusive 10-12 week training plan to prepare for a sport climbing outing during what will be our Thanksgiving break in November (2013).  And here's a little something to keep in mind while bouldering....