Alas, its been a while since I've posted anything, but I'm happy to say that over the past weekend I went on my first bouldering outing to Stonefort in Tennessee. Just to recap, I started climbing on a regular basis last October/November. I had to take a break due to my school/work schedules for a couple months from March through April. Before that break I was just pushing in to the 5.10 range. After the break I had to dust off some rust but soon got back into the swing of things before I tried my hand at bouldering. Bouldering grades are a bit different than sport routes, so once I started climbing regularly I said to myself that I wouldn't try bouldering until I was able to climb at the 5.10 level. Well, the time had come. Due to my body's natural build, one would think that a short and powerful body-type would be beneficial for the short-duration high-intensity of bouldering, but like anything new, it takes time to develop that skill.
This trip served as a base line for my further training. I also wanted to shift gears from sport climbing now that I had reached my previous level in a preemptive strike against plateau-ing. The crew was rounded up and the gear loaded into the van and off we went. I had done some bouldering in the gym prior to the trip, but nothing structured, so this would be a starting gauge for me. At the crag I climbed mostly within the range that I had in the gym, which tells me that our indoor route-setters keep their routes true to the grade. From what I can remember I had successful ascends of a V2 and V0; and flashed a V1. I tried several V3's that I couldn't finish the last few move or two on, similarly to my indoor performance. Just for fun, I had to try some harder problems such as the one in the above picture. I don't remember what it was called, but I believe it was a V4 ... that didn't go so well. However, I had a pretty decent effort on a V6, but the game-changer there was that the moves on the problem were a good style-match for me... good holds with big and powerful moves. We got rained out in the mid-afternoon which (truth be told) I was thankful for because I was quite fatigued by that point in the day. All in all, it was certainly a memorable trip to say the least and now I have somewhere to work from.
With all that in mind, I began planning the next trip on the way home from the first. Except this time I would have a much more detailed training program which is listed below. My diet has and will remain about the same, I'm not quite as active during the summer months as I am during the school year so things have been scaled down a bit. This is still largely based on what you will find in Tim Ferriss's book "The Four Hour Body" and here is what a quick run-down looks like this:
Calories: ~1595
Carbohydrates: ~126g (31.5%)
Protein: ~150g (37.7%)
Fat - ~54g (30.8%)
Breakfast (w/in 30 min of waking)- 1 whole egg, 3 servings egg whites, fresh vegetables
Supplement: NOW Policosanol (1), NOW AlliBiotic CF (1)
Lunch - Beans or Lentils (Occasionally whole grain bread [not wheat]), 4oz meat / fish, fresh vegetables
Mid-Afternoon - 4oz meat / fish, fresh vegetables
1-2 Hours Pre Workout - 40g Nuts, Green Tea
Post Workout - Beans or Lentils, 4oz meat / fish, frozen vegetables
Supplement: NOW Policosanol (1), NOW AlliBiotic (1), XCAP Natural Mins (4)
Late Meal - 40g Nuts, frozen vegetables
*Cinnamon w/ Coffee
*Lemon Water w/ Meals
*One day off per week, no limit -> first meal is clean but spicy, drink plenty of coffee and fruit juice, 90 seconds of exercise before and after each meal
4 Week Training Plan:
*There were a couple good resources I found useful for making this training plan. I tried to stick to the as best I could while considering my work and school schedules as well as the hours of our indoor rock wall. You can find the resources here and here. I'll actually be starting this on the 4th day of Week 1 since I have a limited time frame to work with. I'll also be posting weekly updates and logs of my cardio / workout sessions.
Week 1
Monday - Boulder for Grade and 30 min Cardio
Tuesday - Boulder for Volume
Wednesday - Boulder for Volume and Yoga
Thursday - 30 min Cardio and Yoga
Friday - Boulder for Grade and 30 min Cardio
Saturday - 30 minute Circuit Workout and 30 min Cardio
Sunday - Rest / Diet Cheat Day
Week 2
Monday - Boulder for Grade and Yoga
Tuesday - Boulder for Volume and 30 min Cardio
Wednesday - Boulder for Volume and Yoga
Thursday - 30 min Circuit Workout and Yoga
Friday - Boulder for Grade
Saturday - 30 min Circuit Workout and 30 min Cardio
Sunday - Rest / Diet Cheat Day
Week 3
Monday - Boulder for Grade and Yoga
Tuesday - Boulder for Volume and Yoga
Wednesday - Boulder for Volume
Thursday - 30 min Circuit Workout and 30 min Cardio
Friday - Boulder for Grade and Yoga
Saturday - 30 min Circuit Workout and 30 min Cardio
Sunday - Rest / Diet Cheat Day
Week 4
Monday - Boulder for Grade and Yoga
Tuesday - 30 min Cardio and Yoga
Wednesday - Boulder for Volume
Thursday - Yoga
Friday - Yoga
Saturday - Rest / Travel
Sunday - CLIMB!
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