Training for Bouldering (Part 2: Training Results)

Training for Bouldering

Part 2:  Training Results

          This is a follow up post to "Training for Bouldering Part 1:  Planning and Preparation."  This post will document some statistical information and review what I think worked particularly well in the training camp.  Specifics as to the effectiveness of the program can not be analyzed until the actual "event" has been completed and reviewed (e.g. Part 3 of this post series).

Starting Body Statistics
Date:  6/13/2013 (Day 4 of Week 1)
Weight:  169.4 lbs
BMI:  25.8
PBF (JP3 is easiest for self-test):  6.95

End Body Statistics
Date: 7/4/2013 (Day 4 of Week 4)
Weight:  166.4
BMI:  25.3
PBF:  5.04

Ending Fitness Statistics
Overhead Squat Max: 135 (6/2713) -> 79.4% of goal
Front Squat Max: Not Tested
Max # of Pullups: Not Tested
Dumbbell Snatch @ 55 lbs for 10 min:  64 reps (6/27/13) -> 42.7% of goal
1-Hand Dumbbell Bench Press - 5 rep max (L/R):  Not Tested
Best 500m Row:  Not Tested
Gym Jones "Adequate"?:  NO
Best 2000m Row:  Not Tested
VO2 Max Calculator (Calculator Link):  Not Tested

Starting Bouldering Status
Indoor - projecting V3+ and V4-
Outdoor - projecting V3, onsight level = V2

Ending Bouldering Status
*  See Part 3

Review:
          In review of this training camp I think that overall it was very effective.  I certainly feel that if my goal was to increase my climbing power then I accomplished that.  However, that being said there would be a number of changes that I would make in the future.  Most of my circuit training sessions were cut out due to work schedule conflicts.  Thus, I was not really prepared for the fitness testing that was to take place at the end of the program.  I'm am still climbing at the level where the best way to improve my climbing is by climbing... not necessarily just "more climbing" but structured climbing training.  I am not yet climbing at the level where supplementary cross-training has entered as a big part of the training.  If I were to repeat this process I would be perfectly happy including the same climbing program but replacing the circuit sessions with yoga sessions.
          As for the cardio training, those ideas came from the initial base plan to "get you in shape" for a fast four weeks of preparation.  I would say that my general fitness level is already pretty good.  Not to mention that training power and slow-methodical cardiovascular skills is kind of counter intuitive.  Training cardio circuits on the other hand is a different matter.  Still, though, that is a technique that would be better implemented in the next phase of my training which is increase power endurance rather than sheer power.
          As mentioned in the first paragraph, training hard cross-fit-styled lifting sessions also tends to leave the body pretty sore, especially if they are of the Gym Jones flavor.  This seemed to somewhat impede my climbing training; which, as I discussed, believe is still the most important dimension of training given my current skill set.

Link to Part 3 ...