Training for Bouldering (Part 3: Show Time)

Training for Bouldering

Part 3:  Show Time

*This is Part III of a 3-part series.  Please see the following links for...
Part I:  Planning and Preparation
Part II:  Training Results

          Initially I had set up this training program after my first bouldering outing to Stonefort in Soddy-Daisy, Tennesses.  I set up a 4 week training plan to boost my overall climbing power and try a second bouldering trip, this time to Horse Pens 40 in Steele, Alabama.  During the final week of my training the weather outlook was not looking positive and we were forced to reschedule.  The resulting plan was that a friend and I were going to try out the Escalade Climbing Gym in Kennesaw, Georgia.  This sort of served as a best case replacement scenario.  The gym was largely focused on bouldering and we would be presented with routes and rating preferences (by the route-setters) that we were not familiar with.
          In general evaluation of my performance, I think that the day was largely a success.  We spent about four or five hours climbing at a V3-4 level.  My apologies for not having any specific numbers on the quantity of routes at Difficulty-X, but I'll try to provide an accurate summary of the experience here.  As the day began we warmed up on a few V1s and V2s.  They felt about where they should be difficulty wise.  As we tried out a few more routes, we soon came to what was known as "The Cave."  This was a very exciting opportunity for the both of us because we were accustomed to climbing on flat or short and slightly  overhung routes.  The routes in "The Cave" were pretty steep to say the least, and have a large stalagmite-type feature in the center of the roof.  I was able to complete a V1 inside the cave, which I felt was quite an accomplishment not for the grade, but for the duration (length) and style (steep overhang) of the route.
          As the day went on we were feeling lucky and spent a large part of the day working on various V4 problems.  I had never completed a V4 indoors on the routes I was familiar with in my home gym, let alone at a strange gym or outdoors.  I did not complete and V4s here either, but there were several very solid efforts put forth on my behalf.  For example there were a couple that I was limited by my height on the last move (e.g. 4 feet from the topout and no feet... not so good if you're < 6'0").  I had that going for me, I was within one move of finishing many of the V4s that I was projecting.  I think that I completed all of the V2s that I was working on; with the exception of the last hour or so of the day where we were just trying to beat ourselves into exhaustion.)
          There were not many routes that we attempted that were inside the actual cave, but there is one that I want to make specific reference of.  I was eyeball-ing this route and walking around it, trying to put the pieces together.  I definitely through it was do-able, but it was a V4 on a steep overhang.  What the hell, it was worth a shot.  Much to my surprise my anticipation of the routes sequences was pretty accurate.  On my first attempt I got about 2/3s through the route.  On other attempts I got about 3/4s through.  Upon later investigation of the final move before the topout, I decided that while I was working on the last few sequences, I did not have enough energy left to accomplish the entire route.  However, I feel that my "power training" had paid off.  The routes inside the cave had pretty large holds, nevertheless they required some serious power to make some of the dynamic and heel-hooking moves.
          In general, I think that my previous training plan did a good job of preparing me for this little guest trip.   I know that when I began my foray into bouldering, the slightest sign of an overhang or tiny crimpy holds made my fingers weep.  A few weeks later, after the first bouldering trip, my ability was brought into perspective and I was reminded of the difference between outdoor onsight level and trained muscle memory from training on the same routes over and over indoors.  Four weeks ago I would have never even thought of jumping on and working with serious contention on a V4, which of course means that a V5 would not be entirely out of the realm of possibility either.  I call that a success.
          There are a few things that I would have done differently if I were to repeat this process.  Firstly, I would not incorporate conditioning.  The initial training plan that I adapted was geared towards general fitness whereas the specific intent of my training was to improve power.  Secondly, while circuit training with whole body and power movements seems appropriate, it can sometimes be a counter productive measure.  In my experience I am much more likely to feel sore after a hard day of lifting than I am after climbing.  The idea here is quality over quantity.  It is not good lifting (or climbing) for four hours one day if you must break your training schedule and take an extra day of rest the following day(s)... or worse, get injured and have to take an entire week or more off.  Moderation and careful planning (e.g. training "smart") is just as important (I argue more) than training "hard."  Though both certainly have their benefits.  I also found that yoga was a great supplemental exercise to include in this program.  Aside from the obvious improvements in flexibility, it also helps to increase focus (like when you're making a hard move) and can serve as a form of active recovery to still train and do something active while stretching, relaxing, and recovering the body rather than breaking it down more.  I'd be perfectly  happy, if time did not allow for a general fitness mesocycle phase, to skip right into a power-climbing phase supplemented with yoga to begin a training plan.
          I will be posting (in the next couple days) my training plan for the next six weeks.  The goal of this plan is to increase power endurance.  That is, to ensure that the power I have worked for over the past weeks can be sustained on successive attempts on sport routes in contrast to boulder problems.  These two series of posts are trial runs and experimentation processes for what will be a large 10-12 week training plan (beginning once the school year starts in late August) and culminating with a multi-day sport climbing trip during the Thanksgiving break while school is out.


Stay tuned!  Rock Loud and Live Fast!