This Blog is Moving

     There have been several swings in the "publication" processes of how I write, title, and author my blogs.  Another is about to take place.  My first fitness-ish blog was justifiably titled "Fighting and Dieting."  With the UFC being all the rage these days and fad-diets always cropping up to fill someone's pockets; imagine the potential viewership I could have gained if I kept fanning that fire.  That blog was reincarnated in March of 2012 under this current title; "Confessions of an Open Source Athlete."  The title was a clever choice on my part.  I'm a huge fan of Linux (an open source) operating system.  In the simplest terms, I view my fitness training and nutritional information as being "open sourced."  That is, there is not one predominant authority, rather I'm open to input from a variety of "sources."  This not only includes nutritional information, training theory, but also the sports/events I've found myself training for (pretty much running the gamut from football to powerlifting to boxing/kickboxing to brazilian jiujitsu, to rock climbing, and training people all those and more.)

      The description of this blog reads "My view on fitness, nutrition, dieting, and athletic training are that they should be as individualized, customized, and unique as the people implementing them..."  I still hold firm to that view.  However, I feel that the blog was no longer serving those ends.  What happened was/is that as my own personal interests became more refined (specialized, and narrow), so did the types of things I wrote about.  Rather than sourcing out and seeking new material I was really only writing on two sports, Climbing and BJJ.  Posts on dieting were a bit more varied but not enough to trump the former in my opinion.
     As long as the Google servers hold, my earliest blog "Fighting and Dieting" still exists as an archive and that information is still available to the public here.  I plan to leave this blog active so that its content remains available.  Future posts that would have gone in this blog will now be included in my other one.  Consolidation is not such a bad thing, it seems kind of nice to have one thing and call it "mine"; rather than dividing my interests between two separate blogs.  Would you really look for fitness and nutrition information in a philosophy and psychology blog?  How "open" are your "sources?"  To see what I've been up to, you'll need to follow this blog through its next incarnation at Better Living Through Agony.

Training for Climbing Power Endurance

          If you've been following my recent posts here, then you know that I've spent the last four weeks or so working on my climbing power.  Now the time has come to make sure that that power A) can last longer (e.g. for a day's worth of climbs), and B) total power isn't lost.  This next "training camp" is a six-week process that I've adapted from the ClimbStrong website (link).  The program prescribed on the website seemed more geared towards bouldering, however, it is my intention to give it a spin oriented towards sport climbing (e.g. vertical "lead" routes).
          The big picture here is actually not to develop two separate training plans.  Rather, it is to gather beta and trial data from these two meso-cycles in order to formulate a long (10 weeks or so) training plan that will be implemented once the school year starts in late August.  The culmination being good preparation for a multi-day climbing trip over the Thanksgiving holiday break while school is out.  Other resources will be included, but as you can see, I've primarily been experimenting with those form the ClimbStrong website.  Ideally, these experiences will be implemented into the larger picture training plan.  More on that later, but just a heads up, that is where these posts are headed.
          For the next six weeks I'll be working on power endurance.  That is, training my body to make the power I've accumulated over the past four weeks last A) for the duration of a sport route rather than boulder problems, and B) for several maximal effort climbs within the same day.  In past climbing outings I have felt that this is an issue for me.  I can get a moderate warm-up in, but after a couple of hours of hard climbing, my body and mind are pretty well shot.  That makes the trip look more like an afternoon's worth of climbs rather than an entire weekend of adventuring.  I plan to change that.
          My diet and supplementation for this training camp will remain the same as it has been in the past weeks as I have found it very adequate and suiting to my lifestyle.  I've posted many links in the past that you can reference, but the most complete synopsis of the modifications I've made to Tim Ferriss's "Slow Carb Diet" can be found here.  My training prescription for the following weeks is as follows; however, there will be (I'm sure) some scheduling conflicts / modifications that will need to be made along the way.  As always, I'll keep careful notes and post them here as well.  Most likely I'll follow the same posting format as before:  1)  A mid-way review / check-in, 2) A review of the training camp in its entirety, and 3) A review and analysis of the event I've been training for.  The following training plan has been adapted from here.

* All pullups preferred to be done for large (jug) climbing holds

Week 1
Monday

• 6 x "Taps" @ 5.8 - 5.9
• "Taps" = must tap each hand-hold twice before grabbing onto it. (1...2... grab)
• Campus (no legs) 1 x 5.7, resting along the way if needed
• 5 pullups / min for 10 minutes

Tuesday - 6 x up/down/up boulder problems

Wednesday

• 1:1 Work:Rest Ratio
• 1 onsight level boulder problem / min for 10 minutes
• Repeat for 8, 6, 4, and 2 minutes

Thursday - Yoga Class

Friday

• 6 x Taps @ 5.8 - 5.9
• Hangboard:  3 grips x 4 sets x 8 seconds
• 5 pullups / min for 10 minutes

Saturday - Yoga at home

Sunday - Rest / Diet Cheat Day

Week 2
Monday - 4 x 5.10 routes
Tuesday

• 8 x Taps @ 5.8 - 5.9
• Hangboard:  3 grips x 5 set x 8 seconds
• 5 pullups / min for 10 minutes

Wednesday - 3 problems x 3 laps (u/d/u/d/u/d) each - Full Rest
Thursday - Yoga Class
Friday

• 1:1 Work:Rest Ratio
• 1 onsight level boulder problem / min for 10 minutes
• Repeat for 8, 6, 4, and 2 minutes

Saturday - Yoga at home
Sunday - Rest / Diet Cheat Day

Week 3
Monday

• 8 x up/down/up boulder problems
• 4 sets x 4 problems @ 4 min rest (not laps, each prob is independent effort)

Tuesday

• 8 x Taps @ 5.9
• 3 problems x 3 laps @ 3 min rest

Wednesday - 4 x 5 min easy travers @ 5 min rest
Thursday - 2 x max effort routes
Friday - Repeat of Tuesday
Saturday  - Yoga at home
Sunday - Rest / Diet Cheat Day

Week 4
Monday

• Hangboard:  3 grips x 5 sets x 8 seconds
• 3 x max pullups on jugs
• 25 reps knee-to-elbow

Tuesday

• 6 problems x 2 laps each
• 1 max effort route

Wednesday - 4 x 5 min easy travers @ 5 min rest
Thursday - Yoga Class
Friday

• 3 x 5.10 routes
• 3 x max pullups on jugs
• 25 reps knee-to-elbow

Saturday - Yoga at home
Sunday - Rest / Diet Cheat Day

Week 5
Monday

• 8x Taps @ 5.9 - 5.10
• 7 pullups / min for 7 minutes

Tuesday

• 5 sets of 4 problems (independent efforts) @ 5 min rest per set
• 4 x 20 move traverse

Wednesday

• 4 problems x 4 laps each @ full rest
• 7 pullups / min for 9  minutes

Thursday -Yoga Class
Friday

• 2 x max effort routes
• Hangboard:  3 grips x 5 sets x 8 seconds

Saturday - Yoga at home
Sunday - Rest / Diet Cheat Day

Week 6
Monday

• 1 x max effort route
• 8 pullups / min for 8 minutes
• Hangboard:  3 grips x 4 sets x 8 seconds

Tuesday - 10 x up/down/up problems
Wednesday

• 8 x Taps @ 5.9 - 5.10
• 8 pullups / min for 8 minutes
• Hangboard:  3 grips x 4 sets x 8 seconds

Thursday - Yoga Class
Friday - Rest / Travel
Saturday - EVENT!

Note on Cardio and Strength Training - I've talked in previous posts about strength and conditioning and their application to climbing training.  At this time, I still believe that the thing that will most help me climb better is simply climbing.  The closer related to climbing my training activities are, the better.  That being said, there is a lot of climbing and yoga in this training plan for that reason.  In the future, however, depending on the specifics of the mesocycles of the training camp, there may be room to include strength and/or conditioning sessions.

Training for Bouldering (Part 3: Show Time)

Training for Bouldering

Part 3:  Show Time

*This is Part III of a 3-part series.  Please see the following links for...
Part I:  Planning and Preparation
Part II:  Training Results

          Initially I had set up this training program after my first bouldering outing to Stonefort in Soddy-Daisy, Tennesses.  I set up a 4 week training plan to boost my overall climbing power and try a second bouldering trip, this time to Horse Pens 40 in Steele, Alabama.  During the final week of my training the weather outlook was not looking positive and we were forced to reschedule.  The resulting plan was that a friend and I were going to try out the Escalade Climbing Gym in Kennesaw, Georgia.  This sort of served as a best case replacement scenario.  The gym was largely focused on bouldering and we would be presented with routes and rating preferences (by the route-setters) that we were not familiar with.
          In general evaluation of my performance, I think that the day was largely a success.  We spent about four or five hours climbing at a V3-4 level.  My apologies for not having any specific numbers on the quantity of routes at Difficulty-X, but I'll try to provide an accurate summary of the experience here.  As the day began we warmed up on a few V1s and V2s.  They felt about where they should be difficulty wise.  As we tried out a few more routes, we soon came to what was known as "The Cave."  This was a very exciting opportunity for the both of us because we were accustomed to climbing on flat or short and slightly  overhung routes.  The routes in "The Cave" were pretty steep to say the least, and have a large stalagmite-type feature in the center of the roof.  I was able to complete a V1 inside the cave, which I felt was quite an accomplishment not for the grade, but for the duration (length) and style (steep overhang) of the route.
          As the day went on we were feeling lucky and spent a large part of the day working on various V4 problems.  I had never completed a V4 indoors on the routes I was familiar with in my home gym, let alone at a strange gym or outdoors.  I did not complete and V4s here either, but there were several very solid efforts put forth on my behalf.  For example there were a couple that I was limited by my height on the last move (e.g. 4 feet from the topout and no feet... not so good if you're < 6'0").  I had that going for me, I was within one move of finishing many of the V4s that I was projecting.  I think that I completed all of the V2s that I was working on; with the exception of the last hour or so of the day where we were just trying to beat ourselves into exhaustion.)
          There were not many routes that we attempted that were inside the actual cave, but there is one that I want to make specific reference of.  I was eyeball-ing this route and walking around it, trying to put the pieces together.  I definitely through it was do-able, but it was a V4 on a steep overhang.  What the hell, it was worth a shot.  Much to my surprise my anticipation of the routes sequences was pretty accurate.  On my first attempt I got about 2/3s through the route.  On other attempts I got about 3/4s through.  Upon later investigation of the final move before the topout, I decided that while I was working on the last few sequences, I did not have enough energy left to accomplish the entire route.  However, I feel that my "power training" had paid off.  The routes inside the cave had pretty large holds, nevertheless they required some serious power to make some of the dynamic and heel-hooking moves.
          In general, I think that my previous training plan did a good job of preparing me for this little guest trip.   I know that when I began my foray into bouldering, the slightest sign of an overhang or tiny crimpy holds made my fingers weep.  A few weeks later, after the first bouldering trip, my ability was brought into perspective and I was reminded of the difference between outdoor onsight level and trained muscle memory from training on the same routes over and over indoors.  Four weeks ago I would have never even thought of jumping on and working with serious contention on a V4, which of course means that a V5 would not be entirely out of the realm of possibility either.  I call that a success.
          There are a few things that I would have done differently if I were to repeat this process.  Firstly, I would not incorporate conditioning.  The initial training plan that I adapted was geared towards general fitness whereas the specific intent of my training was to improve power.  Secondly, while circuit training with whole body and power movements seems appropriate, it can sometimes be a counter productive measure.  In my experience I am much more likely to feel sore after a hard day of lifting than I am after climbing.  The idea here is quality over quantity.  It is not good lifting (or climbing) for four hours one day if you must break your training schedule and take an extra day of rest the following day(s)... or worse, get injured and have to take an entire week or more off.  Moderation and careful planning (e.g. training "smart") is just as important (I argue more) than training "hard."  Though both certainly have their benefits.  I also found that yoga was a great supplemental exercise to include in this program.  Aside from the obvious improvements in flexibility, it also helps to increase focus (like when you're making a hard move) and can serve as a form of active recovery to still train and do something active while stretching, relaxing, and recovering the body rather than breaking it down more.  I'd be perfectly  happy, if time did not allow for a general fitness mesocycle phase, to skip right into a power-climbing phase supplemented with yoga to begin a training plan.
          I will be posting (in the next couple days) my training plan for the next six weeks.  The goal of this plan is to increase power endurance.  That is, to ensure that the power I have worked for over the past weeks can be sustained on successive attempts on sport routes in contrast to boulder problems.  These two series of posts are trial runs and experimentation processes for what will be a large 10-12 week training plan (beginning once the school year starts in late August) and culminating with a multi-day sport climbing trip during the Thanksgiving break while school is out.


Stay tuned!  Rock Loud and Live Fast!

Training for Bouldering (Part 2: Training Results)

Training for Bouldering

Part 2:  Training Results

          This is a follow up post to "Training for Bouldering Part 1:  Planning and Preparation."  This post will document some statistical information and review what I think worked particularly well in the training camp.  Specifics as to the effectiveness of the program can not be analyzed until the actual "event" has been completed and reviewed (e.g. Part 3 of this post series).

Starting Body Statistics
Date:  6/13/2013 (Day 4 of Week 1)
Weight:  169.4 lbs
BMI:  25.8
PBF (JP3 is easiest for self-test):  6.95

End Body Statistics
Date: 7/4/2013 (Day 4 of Week 4)
Weight:  166.4
BMI:  25.3
PBF:  5.04

Ending Fitness Statistics
Overhead Squat Max: 135 (6/2713) -> 79.4% of goal
Front Squat Max: Not Tested
Max # of Pullups: Not Tested
Dumbbell Snatch @ 55 lbs for 10 min:  64 reps (6/27/13) -> 42.7% of goal
1-Hand Dumbbell Bench Press - 5 rep max (L/R):  Not Tested
Best 500m Row:  Not Tested
Gym Jones "Adequate"?:  NO
Best 2000m Row:  Not Tested
VO2 Max Calculator (Calculator Link):  Not Tested

Starting Bouldering Status
Indoor - projecting V3+ and V4-
Outdoor - projecting V3, onsight level = V2

Ending Bouldering Status
*  See Part 3

Review:
          In review of this training camp I think that overall it was very effective.  I certainly feel that if my goal was to increase my climbing power then I accomplished that.  However, that being said there would be a number of changes that I would make in the future.  Most of my circuit training sessions were cut out due to work schedule conflicts.  Thus, I was not really prepared for the fitness testing that was to take place at the end of the program.  I'm am still climbing at the level where the best way to improve my climbing is by climbing... not necessarily just "more climbing" but structured climbing training.  I am not yet climbing at the level where supplementary cross-training has entered as a big part of the training.  If I were to repeat this process I would be perfectly happy including the same climbing program but replacing the circuit sessions with yoga sessions.
          As for the cardio training, those ideas came from the initial base plan to "get you in shape" for a fast four weeks of preparation.  I would say that my general fitness level is already pretty good.  Not to mention that training power and slow-methodical cardiovascular skills is kind of counter intuitive.  Training cardio circuits on the other hand is a different matter.  Still, though, that is a technique that would be better implemented in the next phase of my training which is increase power endurance rather than sheer power.
          As mentioned in the first paragraph, training hard cross-fit-styled lifting sessions also tends to leave the body pretty sore, especially if they are of the Gym Jones flavor.  This seemed to somewhat impede my climbing training; which, as I discussed, believe is still the most important dimension of training given my current skill set.

Link to Part 3 ...

Training for Bouldering (Part 1: Planning and Preparation)

Training for Bouldering

Part 1:  Planning and Preparation

          My most recent training endeavor has been to increase my rock climbing power.  This was an attempt to "shift gears" to bouldering rather than sport climbing in order to avoid plateu-ing at a certain grade.  I used a combination of several resources to formulate a four-week training plan which is listed here and the references included at the bottom of the post.

          This post is the first in a three part series.  This, first part, is just to list the training methods I used, and I'll discuss their effectiveness in later posts over the next few days.  My prescribed training plan looks like what you will find below, however, there were several work/school/scheduling conflicts that arose; as well as the changing of my finishing date; which all called for some readjusting of this original prescription.  I started on Day-4 of Week-1 (6/13/13) and ended on Day-4 of Week-4 (7/4/13).

Week 1

Monday - Boulder for Grade & 30 min Cardio

Tuesday - Boulder for Volume

Wednesday - Boulder for Volume & Yoga

Thursday - 30 min Cardio & Yoga

Friday - Boulder for Grade & 30 min Cardio

Saturday - 30 min Circuit & 30 min Cardio

Sunday - Rest / Diet Cheat Day

Week 2

Monday - Boulder for Grade & Yoga

Tuesday - Boulder for Volume & 30 min Cardio

Wednesday - Boulder for Volume & Yoga

Thursday - 30 min Circuit & Yoga

Friday - Boulder for Grade

Saturday - 30 min Circuit & Yoga

Sunday - Rest / Diet Cheat Day

Week 3

Monday - Boulder for Grade & Yoga

Tuesday - Boulder for Volume & Yoga

Wednesday - Boulder for Volume

Thursday - 30 min Circuit & 30 min Cardio

Friday - Boulder for Grade & Yoga

Saturday - 30 min Circuit & 30  min Cardio

Sunday - Rest / Diet Cheat Day

Week 4

Monday - Boulder for Grade & Yoga

Tuesday - 30 min Cardio & Yoga

Wednesday - Boulder for Volume

Thursday - Yoga

Friday - Yoga

Saturday - Travel / Rest

Sunday - Event

Details

          Climbing for Grade - For these sessions I set a goal for myself of earning 50 "points" in about a 60 minute climbing session.  For my skill set at the beginning of this program I assigned the following point values.

V0 and V1 = 1 point

V2 = 3 points

V2+ and V3- = 4 points

V3 = 5 points

v3+ and V4- = 10 points

V4 = 20 points

          Climbing for Volume - These sessions had a goal of 150+ moves in about a 90 minute session.  For example, a workout might included something like...

2 x 25 move taverse

V1 x 5

V2 x 4

V3 x 3

V4 x 2

V3 x 3

V2 x 4

V1 x 5

          Yoga workouts usually consisted of a 30-60 min class, a ~60 minute youtube video, or ~60 minutes freestyle practice on my own at home.  Circuit and Cardio workouts can be found in the references below.

Changes / Notes:

6/15 - Work schedule conflict, no training

6/20 - Work Schedule conflict, 30 min Cardio and 30 min Yoga

6/21 - Spur of the Moment Climbing trip; Sandrock, AL - apx. 5 hours, Sport Climbing, Diet Cheat Day

6/22 - Work Schedule; need to sleep BAD

6/23 - Recovery, still recovering from Sandrock trip

6/24 - Unplanned diet cheat meal, gave into late night cravings after work

6/28 - Work conflict, no cardio, extra cheat meal, but long day of climbing

6/29 - Still sore from Circuit - resting

6/30 - Still resting

7/1 - 2 hours climbing, no yoga

7/2 - 2 hours climbing, no yoga

7/4 - carb load, mostly starchy and clean, but SOME junk

7/5 - Event - rain canceled outdoor bouldering, tried out new rock gym.

References

• Diet
• Mildly Modified Slow-Carb Diet
• Slow-Carb Quick Reference Sheet
• Slow-Carb Vitamins and Supplements Cheat Sheet 
• My Supplement Selection
• NOW Policosanol (1 in morning, 1 post-workout)
• NOW AlliBiotic (1 in morning, 1 post-workout)
• XCAP Natural Mins (4 post-workout)
• 4-Week Base Game Plan
• Article on DPM's website, "Fit for Fall in 4 Weeks"
• Training Article on Steve Bechtel's "ClimbStrong" website
• Climbing Training fro Grade
• Climbing magazine Article "New Workouts to Refresh Your Gym Training" by Julie Ellison and Alex Biale
• Climbing Training for Volume
• ROCKandICE magazine article "Never Get Pumped Again" by Neil Gresham
• Cardio - (Running hurts my back, cycling pumps my legs, eliptical machines are awkward, airdyne and skierg not available at my gym, thus... rowing is my cardio of choice)
• Workouts taken from the "short" option on the Concept2 "Workout of the Day" section
• Circuit Training
• I'm a long time fan of Gym Jones for both their knowledge and training.  A couple of years ago I ran into a Men's Fitness article that reviewed some of their "Minimum Adequacies."

Part II:
Training for Bouldering Part II:  Training Results
Training for Bouldering Part III:  Show Time

Bouldering: Training Mid-Way Point Checkin

          As of this week I'm a little over mid-way through my bouldering "training camp."  Last weekend I was corralled (albeit there wasn't much arm twisting) into going on an afternoon sport climbing trip to Sandrock, AL.  I wasn't too keen on deviating from my scheduled bouldering training, but it served as a nice little check-in and reference point.
          The outing only lasted a few hours, but some major milestones were accomplished on my behalf.  I led my first 5.10a outdoors (gear pre-placed) which was a statement in and of itself.  I had previously only climbed 5.10s indoors and this was my first outdoor attempt at that grade.  The route was dubbed "Oyster" and had three falls on the route.  The first two were due to myself getting scared just before the overhang, and again while clipping at the tip of the overhang when I didn't feel I had a solid hold.  The last fall was while mounting the overhang on a difficult heel-hook move.  Nevertheless, the route was successfully logged in my records as a "send."  I thought this to be quite a testament to my training.  If my goal over the past few weeks has been to increase power and finger strength, then I feel as if I am on the right track as you will find below.  The other members of the group, as well as myself, thought that on another day or another attempt I could have sent the route cleanly.  I'll keep that in mind for the next (of surely many) trip(s) to Sandrock.
          I also, at the very end of the day attempted to toprope a 5.11c/d.  I only got about to the first clip, but it was near dark and I was trying to climb well above my regular grade with a headlamp as the only source of light.  Bluntly, it felt pretty (insert expletive) hard, but I felt that if there had been more daylight remaining then I could have given a very honest effort at the route (called Dreamscape).
          When logging the new entries into my record books I couldn't help but compare the results from my last trip to Sandrock last November.  Then, I climbed several 5.8s, one 5.8+ and one 5.9 (neither clean), and my toprope project was a 5.10a.  Just to put that in perspective... In the past seven month I had two one-month layoffs of no climbing whatsoever, and what was my toprope project seven months ago, I had sent on lead.  During the most recent outing, my warm up was what I finished the day with on the last trip (Kennel Club, 5.8).  I did faired about the same on "My Dog Has Fleas" (5.9)[Those slopers still get me].  And I sent another 5.9+ (First Black in Office) though not cleanly.  Essentially the rundown looks like this:

• Old Average Grade:  5.8 --- New Average Grade:  5.9
• Old Highest Lead Grade:  5.9 --- New Highest Lead Grade:  5.10a
• Old Toprope Project:  5.10a --- New Toprope Project:  5.11c/d

          I certainly think that I have planned and am training appropriately for my sophomore bouldering outing that will be scheduled for early next month.  The conclusion of this series of posts will come in three parts to digest A) how my actual training differed from what was planned, B) the results of my training prior to the outing, and C) the results of the outing.  In actuality, this training camp is only one mesocycle of a complete training plan for sport climbing; part of which I have developed through my own experiences and resources but is largely based on what you will find in Eric Horst's book How to Climb 5.12.  A similar series of posts will be written to describe the next cycle's experience in preparation for a dedicated sport climbing trip (location unknown at this time).  Once that has been completed the details will be worked out for an inclusive 10-12 week training plan to prepare for a sport climbing outing during what will be our Thanksgiving break in November (2013).  And here's a little something to keep in mind while bouldering....

First Boulder Outing and Planning for the Next

          Alas, its been a while since I've posted anything, but I'm happy to say that over the past weekend I went on my first bouldering outing to Stonefort in Tennessee.  Just to recap, I started climbing on a regular basis last October/November.  I had to take a break due to my school/work schedules for a couple months from March through April.  Before that break I was just pushing in to the 5.10 range.  After the break I had to dust off some rust but soon got back into the swing of things before I tried my hand at bouldering.  Bouldering grades are a bit different than sport routes, so once I started climbing regularly I said to myself that I wouldn't try bouldering until I was able to climb at the 5.10 level.  Well, the time had come.  Due to my body's natural build, one would think that a short and powerful body-type would be beneficial for the short-duration high-intensity of bouldering, but like anything new, it takes time to develop that skill.
          This trip served as a base line for my further training.  I also wanted to shift gears from sport climbing now that I had reached my previous level in a preemptive strike against plateau-ing.  The crew was rounded up and the gear loaded into the van and off we went.  I had done some bouldering in the gym prior to the trip, but nothing structured, so this would be a starting gauge for me.  At the crag I climbed mostly within the range that I had in the gym, which tells me that our indoor route-setters keep their routes true to the grade.  From what I can remember I had successful ascends of a V2 and V0; and flashed a V1.  I tried several V3's that I couldn't finish the last few move or two on, similarly to my indoor performance.  Just for fun, I had to try some harder problems such as the one in the above picture.  I don't remember what it was called, but I believe it was a V4 ... that didn't go so well.  However, I had a pretty decent effort on a V6, but the game-changer there was that the moves on the problem were a good style-match for me... good holds with big and powerful moves.  We got rained out in the mid-afternoon which (truth be told) I was thankful for because I was quite fatigued by that point in the day.  All in all, it was certainly a memorable trip to say the least and now I have somewhere to work from.
          With all that in mind, I began planning the next trip on the way home from the first.  Except this time I would have a much more detailed training program which is listed below.  My diet has and will remain about the same, I'm not quite as active during the summer months as I am during the school year so things have been scaled down a bit.  This is still largely based on what you will find in Tim Ferriss's book "The Four Hour Body" and here is what a quick run-down looks like this:

Calories:  ~1595
Carbohydrates:  ~126g (31.5%)
Protein:  ~150g (37.7%)
Fat - ~54g (30.8%)

Breakfast (w/in 30 min of waking)- 1 whole egg, 3 servings egg whites, fresh vegetables
          Supplement:  NOW Policosanol (1), NOW AlliBiotic CF (1)
Lunch - Beans or Lentils (Occasionally whole grain bread [not wheat]), 4oz meat / fish, fresh vegetables
Mid-Afternoon - 4oz meat / fish, fresh vegetables
1-2 Hours Pre Workout - 40g Nuts, Green Tea
Post Workout - Beans or Lentils, 4oz meat / fish, frozen vegetables
          Supplement:  NOW Policosanol (1), NOW AlliBiotic (1), XCAP Natural Mins (4)
Late Meal - 40g Nuts, frozen vegetables
*Cinnamon w/ Coffee
*Lemon Water w/ Meals
*One day off per week, no limit -> first meal is clean but spicy, drink plenty of coffee and fruit juice, 90 seconds of exercise before and after each meal

4 Week Training Plan:
*There were a couple good resources I found useful for making this training plan.  I tried to stick to the as best I could while considering my work and school schedules as well as the hours of our indoor rock wall.  You can find the resources here and here.  I'll actually be starting this on the 4th day of Week 1 since I have a limited time frame to work with.  I'll also be posting weekly updates and logs of my cardio / workout sessions.

Week 1
Monday - Boulder for Grade and 30 min Cardio
Tuesday - Boulder for Volume
Wednesday - Boulder for Volume and Yoga
Thursday - 30 min Cardio and Yoga
Friday - Boulder for Grade and 30 min Cardio
Saturday - 30 minute Circuit Workout and 30 min Cardio
Sunday - Rest / Diet Cheat Day

Week 2
Monday - Boulder for Grade and Yoga
Tuesday - Boulder for Volume and 30 min Cardio
Wednesday - Boulder for Volume and Yoga
Thursday - 30 min Circuit Workout and Yoga
Friday - Boulder for Grade
Saturday - 30 min Circuit Workout and 30 min Cardio
Sunday - Rest / Diet Cheat Day

Week 3
Monday - Boulder for Grade and Yoga
Tuesday - Boulder for Volume and Yoga
Wednesday - Boulder for Volume
Thursday - 30 min Circuit Workout and 30 min Cardio
Friday - Boulder for Grade and Yoga
Saturday - 30 min Circuit Workout and 30 min Cardio
Sunday - Rest / Diet Cheat Day

Week 4
Monday - Boulder for Grade and Yoga
Tuesday - 30 min Cardio and Yoga
Wednesday - Boulder for Volume
Thursday - Yoga
Friday - Yoga
Saturday - Rest / Travel
Sunday - CLIMB!