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Beginning Diet Date - 9/28/12
Beginning Body Weight - 168.2
Beginning Percent Body Fat - 6.76
Beginning Body Mass Index - 26.3 (I'm 5'7" without shoes)
Update Date - 10/7/12
Update BW - 167.4
Update PBF - 6.52
Update BMI - 26.2
*In this particular program I am attempting to reduce body mass and keep body fat low. I realize that given my dietary, goal, and training outlines that I will be losing lean muscle mass, however, I believe this is acceptable if it enhances my performance ability in the sport(s) I am training for (BJJ and Rock Climbing). I am also willing to accept an increase in body fat, within certain restraints, if overall body weight is reduced. At the maximum I will accept 9% body fat.
Foundation Progress (One Mile Climb):
*These routes are not grade specific (see below for graded progress). 1 Mile = 110 routes on the University of West Georgia climbing wall.
9/9 - 9/15: 2 ascents (2 total)
9/16 - 9/22: 6 ascents (8 total)
9/23 - 9/29: 14 ascents (22 total)
9/30 - 10/6: 9 ascents (31 total)
Total Progress: 31 / 110 ( 21.18% complete )
Grade Pyramids:
This is taken from Eric Horst's "How to Climb a 5.12" in which he suggests a pyramid approach to increasing your grade of climbing. For example: you would climb eight 5.8 routes before attempting a 5.9, climb four 5.9s before moving to two 5.9+, then topping the sequence with one 5.10a. The cycle is then repeated from 5.10a/b to 5.10c, 5.10d, 5.11a; and again from 5.12a/b to 5.12c to 5.12d to 5.13a. In this process only "clean" climbs count. That is, you can not fall or rest on the rope whilst climbing the route, it must be done in one attempt, but previous attempts/practice/planning are allowed. This is known as "redpointing." I have made spreadsheets to track all my progress, for this and for the One Mile goal as well. I have separated the Grade Pyramids into two categories, Redpoint (for lead climbing) and Greenoint (for toprope climbing). A quick Google search should easily tell you the difference between toprope and lead climbing.
Greenpoint Progress:
5.8 (1) - 9/21
5.8 (2, 3) - 9/24
5.8 (4, 5, 6) - 9/25
5.8 (7) - 9/27
5.8 (8) - 9/28
There were ascents in addition to these, but these records are only to fill out the pyramid format. Other ascents that do not meet the grade requirement or exceed the quantity requirement (ie: more than eight 5.8 climbs) are simply taken as skill building and useful experience and included in the Mile / Foundation goal tracking.
Performance Rating and Circuits:
I found, in "The Self-Coached Climber" by Dan Hague, a calculation for tracking climbing performance. P (performance) = T (time to complete the route in minutes) x G (grade in either V or YDS scale). There are some flaws to this method, but the idea is to climb a route as fast as possible, so if you're honest in your training you won't lolly-gag on an easy route just to score higher and a faster time on a harder route is obviously better than a longer time on an easier route. I laid out several practice days and one performance day per week to test myself. See the TRAINING NOTES section below for more information regarding scheduling.
Date - Location - Grade - Time - Performance:
Sept 29 - UWG (indoor) - 5.9 and 5.9+ - untimed - toproped but not clean
Diet Notes:
Cleaned Up "Sticky Diet"(10/1/12) - I revised my "sticky diet" (see last post for details) just to make it a little less intimidating and easier to read while flying around the kitchen each morning. There were no changes to content or quantity. You can see that I'm still manipulating my glycogen levels by consuming fast carbs early in the morning and after my workout and by consuming starchy carbs steadily throughout the day. Also, protein is consumed fairly early in the day, post-workout, and before bed for key recovery times. Fat is consumed late in the day to aid recovery.
Meal 1 - Fruit (2 x 20 g/c)
Meal 2 - Protein (20 g/p), Veggies
Meal 3 - Starch (40 g/c), Veggies
Meal 4 (Pre-Workout) - Starch (40 g/c)
Meal 5 (Post-Workout) - Sports Drink, Granola Bar, Whey Protein
Meal 6 - Starch (40 g/c), Nuts (20 g/f)
Meal 7- Starch (40 g/c), Protein (20 g/p)
Supplements:
- MetRX Natural Whey - 1 scoop daily
- Universal Animal Flex - 1 pack on double training days (2 x per week)
Cheating:
- Cheat MEAL (not buffet) or alcohol
- once per week
- Cheat meal replaces 1 starch, 1 fruit, and granola bar
The first boulder I attempted outside the gym on an off day of hiking.
Not logged for training, just a quick on-sight sampler. Nothing beats real rock!
Training Notes:
Scheduling (10/1/12) - Initially I was a bit gun-hoe and for the first couple weeks of my training. I was climbing 5 or 6 days per week, doing BJJ 4 days per week, all on top of my daily cycling commute of about 10 miles. The result?...inflamed fingers and a strained tendon in my right forearm, severely broken down back muscles, aching legs, and my diet shot to *** from "emotional eating." Needless to say, my microcycle (weekly training schedule) needed to be more structured. It is taking a big hit to my heart to knock off one of my beloved BJJ training days, but the focus must be resized. One can not simply continue adding more and more training to their schedule, your body will let you know that eventually you will need to train smarter, not harder. Also, there would be no point in saying that I am training for a climbing outing if I am still spending as much time on BJJ and climbing (respectively) as if I were not preparing for a competition in either. Furthermore, in order to better prepare myself for a climbing outing, I need to place the majority of my training focus therein.
I am still in the "base building" stage of my training, which will last until about November 10. I'll then take a week off and begin Horst's recommended mesocycle which is a 10 week process to prepare for a February 2, 1013 outing. My current goal is still to build a general climbing base through one mile of vertical climbs, my training will reflect that goal. Horst mentions that sport-related-crosstraining is important as well as training muscle groups antagonistic to climbing to prevent injury. He also warns against training three days in a row, however, I'm taking this with a grain of salt because sometimes the gym wall I train on is rather crowded and I may only get a few routes in per day. Below you will find the microcycle that I'll begin in full on 10/8/12. For the remainder of this week I'll be training some but mostly recovering from a foolishly arrogant mistake.
Monday (PM) - Climbing: Warm Up = traverse; Workout = Practice Projects, 1 x 5.8 Gluehands; Cool Down = Stretch
Monday (PM after climbing) - BJJ: Warm UP = Quick Yoga; Workout = 1 hour; Warm Down = 5 x 20 pushup / dip varieties
Tuesday (PM) - Full Rest
Wednesday (PM) - Climbing Performance Day: very light warmup; Timed Routes = 1 x Greenpoint Limit, 2 x 5.8 Routes; Cool Down = Stretch
Thursday (AM) - BJJ: Warm UP = Quick Yoga; Workout = 1 hour; Warm Down = Reversed Wrist Curls 5 x 10 @ 10lbs each side
Thursday (PM) - Climbing: Warm Up = Traverse; Workout = 2 x 5.7 Tracking, 1 x 5.8 Gluehands; Cool Down = Stretch
Friday (PM) - Climbing: Warm Up = Traverse; Workout = 2 x 5.7 Downclimb, 2 x 5.8 Downclimb; Cool Down = Stretch
Saturday (AM) - BJJ: Warm Up = Quick Yoga; Workout = 1 hour; Warm Down = Standing Overhead Press 2 x 25 @ 45lb bar (one set in front / behind head each), Standing Wrist Rotations 20 @ 5lbs (each side)
Sunday - Active Rest: Long Yoga
*Terminology Used: Gluehands is a training method in which you are not allowed to regrip or change holds once your hand has been placed, foot placement is not restricted. Tracking is a training method where your feet must use the same holds your hands have used, hand placement is not restricted. Downclimbing is fairly self explanatory; you climb up a route and then down it to build endurance and increase the difficulty of the climb. A Project is a route that you have failed to green/redpoint, working specific problematic chunks of a Project is a good training method. A Warm Down differs from a Cool Down in that a Cool Down is slowly turning down your body's throttle; where a Warm Down is a more dynamic method of doing the same thing. Quick Yoga is a 5 - 7 minute dynamic stretching method I use to warm up, a video will be posted in the coming weeks. My Long Yoga routine is essentially the same as the Quick Yoga but it is about 30 minutes long, less dynamic, and focused more on stretching and relaxing than warming up.
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