Technical Data:Update Date - 10/14/12
Update BW - 166.8 (99.17 % of Start)
Update PBF - 6.29 (93.05 % of Start)
Update BMI - 26.1 (99.24 % of Start)
*A Quick Note on Procedure: I wake up in the morning, go to the bathroom, strip down to my underwear, and get on the scale. Then I use skin fold calipers to check three different pinch sites. I check each site four times and take the average of each to enter into the appropriate calculation on this site. Then I go to this site to do a simple BMI calculation.
Foundation Progress (One Mile Climb):
Previous Weeks (9/9 - 10/6/12) - 31 ascents
This Week (10/7 - 10/13/12) - 19 ascents
Total Progress - 50 / 110 ( 45.5% Complete)
Grade Pyramids - Greenpoint (toprope clean climbs):
5.8 (1) - 9/21
5.8 (2, 3) - 9/24
5.8 (4, 5, 6) - 9/25
5.8 (7) - 9/27
5.8 (8) - 9/28
5.9 (1) - 10/10
5.9 (2) - 10/12
Performance / Timed Routes:
Date / Location - Route / Condition / Grade / Time / Performance (time in sec. x adjusted grade)
9-26 / UWG - The Purp (TR) / Indoor / 5.8+ / Untimed / NA
9-30 / UWG - Green Holds (not clean) / Indoor / 5.9+ / Untimed / NA
10-10 / UWG - Hello Kitty (TR) / Indoor / 5.9 / 0:04:00 / 1221.6
10-10 / UWG - Crystallize (TR) / Indoor / 5.8 / 0:01:20 / 406.4
10-10 / UWG - Zebra Trout (TR) / Indoor / 5.8 / 0:01:28 / 447.04
* For a description of "adjusted grade" and more in depth performance notes see my last post
Antagonistic Muscle Training:A1) Push Up (5 varieties) x 20
A2) Alternating Standing Push Press x 20 @ 10 lbs
5 sets
B1) Reversed Wrist Curl x 20 (ea. side) @ 5 lbs
B2) Chair Dip (feet on floor) x 10
5 sets
C1) Wrist Rotations x 10 (ea. side) @ 5 lbs
5 sets
Diet Notes:
Adjusted "Sticky Diet" (10/12/12) - I felt that I was a bit under-fueled for my current training routine. Rather than just say "I need to eat more", I decided to do some reallocating of my daily nutrient intake. I have heard it recommended that you eat different amounts of different nutrients depending on the amount of training you are doing on that particular day. I have not participated in this practice too much because it adds complication to the dieting process. However, given my current circumstances, I need more fuel on days I am training twice a day than when I'm not training at all. Here is your update complete with pictures. I did add some calories to "regular" training days, but the biggest change was reallocating more fuel on Double Training Days and taking some away from Rest Days.
(old Sticky Diet)
(new Sticky Diet)
(Sticky Diet "stuck" where I can see it every day)
Training Notes:
Recovery Week (10/7/12) - I stated in my last post that I was overtrained and needed to take a week off from training to recover before continuing further. I did do some climbing and one light day of BJJ and a day of hiking. Most of this was fairly mild and I continued my diet as usual. I feel like the recovery has served me well, and I'm prepared to continue training as previously prescribed.
Sample Microcycle (10/13/12) - I posted my current weekly schedule (microcycle) earlier, but it has been tweeked and adjusted since. I'm still focusing on just the sheer quantity of climbs until I reach the 1 Mile goal. After that I'll do a self evaluation and begin more specific training. Below is my current microcycle. Rather than list a specific grade, the workouts are assigned subjective values such as "Easy", "Moderate" (Comfortable), "Mod/Hard" (Challenging but Below Threshold), and "Hard" (Current Limit). You will also see that I condensed my antagonistic muscle training to one day because I feel this is better suited than trying to cram it in with other sessions.
Monday:
Climbing (PM)
Warm Up: Traverse
Workout: Practice Projects; 2 x Moderate Routes
Cool Down: Stretch
BJJ (PM - after climbing)
Warm Up: Quick Yoga (video coming soon)
Workout: 1 hour (sparing and technique combo)
Cool Down: Stretch
Tuesday: Full Rest Day
Wednesday: Performance Day
Warm Up: Very light (belay a few people)
Workout: Timed Routes - 1 x Greenpoint Limit; 1 x Control Route; 1 x Moderate Route
Warm Down: Play on Wall
Thursday:
BJJ (AM)
Warm Up: Quick Yoga
Workout: 1 hour Technique
Cool Down: Stretch
Climbing (PM)
Warm Up: Traverse
Workout: 3 x Tracking Routes; 1 x Mod/Hard Route
Cool Down: Stretch
Friday:
Climbing (PM)
Warm Up: Traverse
Workout: 4 x Downclimb Routes, Practice Projects
Cool Down: Stretch
Saturday:
BJJ (AM)
Warm Up: Quick Yoga
Workout: 1 hour Technique and Sparring Combo
Warm Down: Antagonistic Muscle Training
Sunday: Active Recovery
Long Yoga: 30 - 60 min
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