Technical Data:Update Date - 10/24/12
Update BW - 166 (98.69 % of Start)
Update PBF - 5.81 (85.95 % of Start)
Update BMI - 26.0 (98.86 % of Start)
Foundation (One Mile) Progress:
Previous Weeks (9/9 - 10/13/12) - 50 ascents
This Week (10/14 - 10/24/12) - 26
Total Progress - 76 / 110 (69.1 % Complete)
Performance / Timed Routes:
Highest Grade Completed (unclean/TR/Indoor) - 5.9+
Highest Grade Completed (clean/TR/Indoor) - 5.9+
Highest Grade Complete (unclen/LEAD/Indoor - 5.8+
Date / Location - Route / Setting / Grade / Time / Performance (time in sec. x adjusted grade)
9-26 / UWG - The Purp (TR) / Indoor / 5.8+ / Untimed / NA
9-30 / UWG - Green Holds (not clean) / Indoor / 5.9+ / Untimed / NA
10-10 / UWG - Hello Kitty (TR) / Indoor / 5.9 / 0:04:00 / 1221.6
10-10 / UWG - Crystallize (TR) / Indoor / 5.8 / 0:01:20 / 406.4
10-10 / UWG - Zebra Trout (TR) / Indoor / 5.8 / 0:01:28 / 447.04
10-17 / UWG - Hello Kitty (TR) / Indoor / 5.9 / 0:02:40 / 814.4
10-17 UWG - Cotton Candy (TR) / Indoor / 5.9+ / Untimed / NA
10-17 / UWG - Green Holds (TR) / Indoor / 5.9+ / Untimed / NA
10-24 / UWG - Hello Kitty (TR) / Indoor / 5.9 / 0:02:12* / 671.88
10-24 / UWG - Green Holds (TR) / Indoor / 5.9+ / 0:02:06 / 641.34
10-24 / UWG - Cotton Candy (TR) / Indoor / 5.9+ / 0:04:06* / 1252.14
*Time including 1 Fall. See "Training Notes"
Some of my routes were were not timed this week (10/17). The reason is that I had fallen on my first attempt of "Green Holds" and nullified the time. I returned later in the day to do it clean and attempt an additional 5.9+ rather than burn "Crystallize." However, "Hello Kitty" was still timed for a comparison to last week.
Grade Pyramids - Greenpoint:5.8 (1) - 9/21
5.8 (2, 3) - 9/24
5.8 (4, 5, 6) - 9/25
5.8 (7) - 9/27
5.8 (8) - 9/28
5.9 (1) - 10/10
5.9 (2) - 10/12
5.9 (3) - 10/15
5.9 (4) - 10/17
5.9+ (1) - 10/17
5.9+ (2) - 10/17
Antagonistic Muscle Training (10/20/12):
This was not specifically antagonistic training as described by Horst, but for reasons stated in another post I am no longer able to participate in my Jiu Jitsu training. I wanted to make sure to maintain the weeklong intensity though. As a result I've mixed in some cardio or weight training that (in the future) will be indicative of my current climbing training phase.
Warm Up: 2 Moderate Climbing Routes
Workout: "Triathlon to Hell" by Gym Jones (*adapted)
500m Row - 50 calorie Ride - 500m Run - Walk back to start
400m Row - 40 cal Ride - 400m Run - Walk back to start
300m Row - 30 cal Ride - 300m Run - Walk back to start
200m Row - 20 cal Ride - 200m Run - Walk back to start
100m Row - 10 cal Ride - 100m Run
Total Time to Complete: 00:38:35.4
Cool Down: Stretch
*Adaptations: My current gym does not have a ski-erg as the originally prescribe, this was substituted with running on a track for the same distance(s). The gym also does not have an airdyne so I made due with a stationary bike for the same calorie intervals.
Diet Notes:
Well Made Adjustments (10/17/12) - I feel like the adjustments I made to my diet last week (in terms of allocating more calories to double training days and fewer to rest days) served me well this week and seem to be a much better eating schedule.
Readjusting Update Schedule (10/21/12) - This post is coming a couple days late, but I came to the conclusion that it was more fitting to check my body measurements on the day of my performance climbs and report back to all you accordingly. It just seemed like a cleaner schedule than delaying everything for a Sunday update.
Training Notes:
Making the Commitment to Climbing (10/19/12) - Today I had to make a very hard decision to discontinue my BJJ training for financial reasons. I will still maintain my involvement with my BJJ gym out of contractual obligations. However, my participation there will be minimal in an attempt to maximize my climbing efforts. You can read more about this in my other blog (link). With this change will come a new microcycle schedule. I'll post the update next week, this week will finish as usual.
New Microcycle Schedule (10/22/12) - If you have been following along, then you know that my current BJJ training is evaporating. There are a few obligations that I must take care of for the gym that will be talked about in the future as they arise. However, for financial reasons I am discontinuing my BJJ training for an indefinite period of time. With this lacking I needed to re-adjust my training schedule to make sure that it maintains its former volume and intensity.
Monday - Climbing
Warm Up - Traverse
Workout - 3 x Moderate Routes; Practice Projects
Warm Down - Quick Yoga
Tuesday - Active Recovery
Workout - Long Yoga (30 - 60 min)
Wednesday - Climbing: Performance Day
Warm Up - Very Light Calisthenics
Timed Routes - 1 x Limit; 1 x Control Route, 1 x Other Route
Warm Down: "Play" on Wall; Stretch
Thursday - Climbing
Warm Up - Traverse
Workout - 3 x Tracking Routes; 3 x Mod/Hard Routes
Warm Down - Quick Yoga
Friday - Strength and Conditioning
Phase Specific Aerobic, Anaerobic, Strength, or Power endurance exercises
*Current focus is a random draw of each. 11/25 will be the start of my official training camp for February 2nd climbing trip. The focus of this day, then, will reflect the general goal of that phase.
Saturday - Active Recovery
Workout - Long Yoga (30 - 60 min)
Sunday - Climbing
Warm Up - Quick Yoga
Workout - 2 x Mod/Hard Routes; 2 x Mod Downclimb; 2 x Easy Downclimb
Cool Down - Stretch
First Lead Climb Experience (10/21/12) - For those who don't know, lead climbing differs from toprope climbing in that the rope is not pre-attached to the top of the route. Rather, you take the rope up with you, clipping "quickdraws", into anchors along the way. Today was my first experience with this. It was much, MUCH, harder than toprope climbing, mainly for the endurance of having to wait on holds while clipping in. I had to take a short break about 2 / 3 of the way up the route but got it done. On my second attempt, this is where I experienced my first lead fall which is typically much further than a toprope fall. It actually was pretty bad fall of about 20 feet. I am experienced enough to not be afraid of falling on toprope because I know it will only be 5 or 6 feet. When the lead fall doesn't catch after that, my "oh ****" face came on, big time! But all was well. The fall actually happened at the worst possible time because I was just about to clip in when my grip gave out, meaning there was a ton of slack in the rope, thus increasing the fall distance. I didn't have time to call out "falling!" so my belayer was unprepared for the fall. I also just called out "clipping" so she had given me a bunch of slack to clip the next quickdraw.
My belayer was actually a bit banged up from the incident, but I was spot free. I felt a little guilty, but she assured me that it was just part of the sport. I suppose it was better to experience a rather bad fall early on to lessen the surprise later on. The route was a 5.8+ and I typically don't have too much trouble on a 5.9+ toproping. This also gives me a good idea of what to aim for once I get outside. Leading will increase the difficulty, and having to do it on real rock will also increase the perceived difficulty.
Falls on Timed Routes (10/24/12) - I did fall on a couple timed routes, but I kept my time keeper running. On the "Hello Kitty" route, my foot slipped off a small hold and I think that this was just because I was rushing on the route. The fall on the "Cotton Candy" route I would attribute to fatigue. Normally my training sessions are 2 - 4 hours long. That means that there is typically plenty of rest in between attempts. This week I was pressed for time and had to squeeze all three timed routes into a one hour segment.
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