*See "Diet Notes" Section
Foundation (One Mile) Progress:
Previous Weeks (9/9 - 10/24/12) - 68 ascents
This Week (10/25 - 10/31/12) - 24 ascents
Total Progress - 100 / 110 (90.1 % Complete)
Performance / Timed Routes:
Highest Grade Completed (indoor / toprope / unclean) - 5.9+
Highest Grade Completed (indoor / toprope / clean) - 5.9+
Date / Location - Route / Setting / Grade / Time / Performance (time in sec. x adjusted grade)
9-26 / UWG - The Purp (TR) / Indoor / 5.8+ / Untimed / NA
9-30 / UWG - Green Holds (not clean) / Indoor / 5.9+ / Untimed / NA
10-10 / UWG - Hello Kitty (TR) / Indoor / 5.9 / 0:04:00 / 1221.6
10-10 / UWG - Crystallize (TR) / Indoor / 5.8 / 0:01:20 / 406.4
10-10 / UWG - Zebra Trout (TR) / Indoor / 5.8 / 0:01:28 / 447.04
10-17 / UWG - Hello Kitty (TR) / Indoor / 5.9 / 0:02:40 / 814.4
10-17 UWG - Cotton Candy (TR) / Indoor / 5.9+ / Untimed / NA
10-17 / UWG - Green Holds (TR) / Indoor / 5.9+ / Untimed / NA
11-1 / *See "Training Notes"
Grade Pyramids - Greenpoint:
5.8 (1) - 9/21
5.8 (2, 3) - 9/24
5.8 (4, 5, 6) - 9/25
5.8 (7) - 9/27
5.8 (8) - 9/28
5.9 (1) - 10/10
5.9 (2) - 10/12
5.9 (3) - 10/15
5.9 (4) - 10/17
5.9+ (1) - 10/17
5.9+ (2) - 10/17
Strength and Conditioning (10/26/12):
Warm Up (15 min):
1 x Mod/Hard Route
Practice Projects
Workout:
500m Row - rest 1/2 completion time
Mountain Climbers for Rowing time - rest 1/2 completion time
Repeat 2 x (Row: 02:08 - 161 watts; 02:12 - 140 watts; 02:00 - 205 watts
Rest 5 min - Then
4 x 30 sec work / rest - DB GobletSquat-to-PushPress - rest in standing position
- done @ 2 x 15lb DBs
rest 30 sec after round
repeat once
Cool Down: Stretch
Diet Notes:
No More Statistical Info (11/1/12) - As noted in the top of this blog, the "technical data" is missing from this post. The reason for this is that I do not wish to continue tracking such things on a weekly basis. There are a few reasons for this. Firstly, after analyzing the data I believe that simply gaining experience on the rock wall is the largest contributor to my improvements in climbing. Thus, decreasing my body mass (which has been slow at best) has played a significant role thus far in my training. Secondly, upon further examination of my diet data I found that my body fat was decreasing faster than my overall mass. That is all well and good, but not what I was attempting to do in this process. Rather, I think that it will take a much longer time than a weekly basis for changes in my muscle construction to take place. This data section will not be gone forever, but will only be included in the occasional update. Thirdly, tracking such things on a weekly basis is a sure fire way to burn out if you're planning on doing it for the rest of your life. I, as a competitive athlete, have been kind of stuck in that 6-week mindset, that I'm constantly moving from one "training camp" to another. Over the summer when I took a break from competing I was venturing into more long term sustainable nutritional practices. I will look back into some things that worked for me in the past and will work better for longer term goal; such as a climbing trip scheduled 10-12 weeks away.
A New Diet (11/1/12) - Hinted above, I will be implementing some old favorite tricks and tips into my current nutritional plan. In general the nutrient ratios and such will stay the same, but there are some other "gimmicks" that I found were effective if not physically then at least psychologically for the duration of the diet. There will be a separate post when these changes are finalized and implemented.
Training Notes:
Lead Certified (11/1/12) - At the University of West Georgia rock wall you are required to pass a certification test administered by the Coordinator of Outdoor Recreation before being allowed to lead climb at the facility. Today was a big day for me as I successfully passed the exam! I'm super stoked about this! I won't get into my personal disagreements with the instructor's teaching style, but with all said and done, I can now practice lead climbing indoors. What really excites me about this is that I can practice a new dimension of my climbing. Many consider lead climbing to be the first step of "real climbing." I'll still do a fair amount of top roping on days when I do not want to push as hard, though leading will be my primary training method from here out. Top roping still has its advantages, for example; if there is a route you've been stuck on and can't climb clean leading, then you can work on it toprope to become more familiar with the route and do a "mock lead" practicing the movements and added endurance associated with lead climbing. I'll get a new post up soon with my updated diet (See above) and training routine.
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