Previous Weeks (9/9 - 11/1/2012) - 100 ascents
This Week (11/2 - 11/7/2012) - ###### ascents
Total Progress - 110 / 110 (100 % Complete - 11/4/12)
New Goals (set 11/4/12 - Due 11/18/12):
Complete ALL climbing pyramids minus 5.10 lead (indoor - clean ONLY):
*See "Training Notes" for details
- 5.10 - toprope
- 5.8 x 2 - lead
- 5.9 x 4 - lead
- 5.9+ x 2 - lead
Performance / Timed Routes:
Toprope - Indoor - Clean - Highest Grade Completed - 5.9+
Toprope - Indoor - Dirty - Highest Grade Completed - 5.10
Lead - Indoor - Clean - Highest Grade Completed - 5.8+
Lead - Indoor - Dirty - Highest Grade Completed - 5.9+
*See "Training Notes" for information on timed routes
Grade Pyramids (Clean - Indoor - Toprope):
5.8 (1) - 9/21
5.8 (2, 3) - 9/24
5.8 (4, 5, 6) - 9/25
5.8 (7) - 9/27
5.8 (8) - 9/28
5.9 (1) - 10/10
5.9 (2) - 10/12
5.9 (3) - 10/15
5.9 (4) - 10/17
5.9+ (1) - 10/17
5.9+ (2) - 10/17
5.10 (1) - not yet completed
Grade Pyramids (Clean - Indoor - Lead):
5.8 (1) - 11/2
5.8 (2, 3, 4) - 11/4
5.8 (5, 6) - 11/5
5.8 (7, 8) - 11/7
5.9 x 4 - not yet completed
5.9+ (1) - 11/7
5.9+ (2) - not yet completed
5.10a (1) - not yet completed
Strength and Conditioning (11/2/12):
*See "Training Notes"
Long Yoga Session (11/3/12):
This Week's "long" yoga session (link)
Diet Notes:
Not Enough Time (11/7/12) - The switch is still to recent to make a good gauge on the dietary changes I made late last week. More information will be available in the next post.
Training Notes:
Timed Routes (11/2/12) - I was using this method of measurement to monitor my progress throughout the early stages of my climbing when there was not a specific goal in play. Now, as I approach the end of my "On Vertical Mile" goal, this measurement has lost its touch. Now that I am a lead certified climber at my gym I have many other training options (other than speed climbing) should I hit a plateau. For example, if I reach a stalling point on lead climbing then I can switch back to toprop to work on the problem. If I reach a plateau toproping, I can switch gears to lead climbing to work on my endurance, technique, and grip. The I have a tentative climbing trip scheduled for the week of 11/19 to scout some of the areas that I'll be climbing on February 2nd. For the next couple weeks I'll be trying to fill out as much of the grade pyramids as I can. Once I begin a 10 week training camp for February, I'll be working on various aspects of climbing and the goal of any particular mesocycle phase will be indicated in future posts.
Strength and Conditioning (11/2/12) - I opted to try out my new lead certification and climb today rather than working in the weight room. This will continue for the next couple weeks until I begin my official training camp. As I am still in the base-building phase (I consider myself so), I want to focus as much on climbing for climbing's sake before I branch out to work on other supplemental attributes.
One Mile Completed! (11/4/12) - Today was a big day. I finished my mid-term goal of completing on mile of vertical climbs! It took a lot of work and diligent training to get here, but things are only looking up! I've got a bout a week and a half to go before taking a week off to evaluate my progress, go on a climbing trip to scout some routes for February, and draw up my 10-week training camp for a February 2nd climb at Sandrock, AL. As far as "Performance Days" go, I've got two left before my Off Week and I'll just be trying to fill out as much of the "Grad Pyramids" as I can. See below for new goal attribution.
New Goals (11/4/12) - I realize that these are some pretty aggressive goals to cram into a week and a half, but I wanted something that would push me fairly hard before taking a week off. Also, if a goal is too easily attainable it will stifle progress. I prefer to shoot just out of reach and work from there based on results, rather than boost my ego. With that said, if I can accomplish all of this, it will put me in a nice spot to gauge future training. I'll be all set to test my limit on the "scouting" climbing trap as I'll have toproped up to a 5.10 and lead up to a 5.9+; thus I'll be in perfect position to test out leading on a 5.10. Also, because of the new goals, my previously listed microcycle (weekly training schedule) is not really accurate as I'll be pushing things pretty hard the next couple weeks before a week off.
First "dirty" 5.10 Toprope / Indoor (11/5/12) - While it was far from clean, I feel like this was a big accomplishment for me. This route had been my plateau for a while and I couldn't even make it 20 ft up the 50 ft route. I wasn't planning on trying this today, but a friend of mine who is a good climber talked me into it. Some of the holds were really greasy so I had a total of 5 fall/slips/takes, but whether its 1 or 10, its still not a clean climb. HOWEVER, it was completed. It hurt, but I'm feeling good.
Progress on "New Goals" (11/7/12) - Today I rounded out the 5.8 indoor lead climbs and finished the first 5.9+. Just to explain why I skipped the 5.9s, our indoor wall only has anchors set on two lines. One line has a 5.8+ and a 5.10 offering, the other a 5.9+ and a 5.10. For future reference I am undecided if I will look for a way to either make the 5.9+ a bit easier to drop it to a 5.9 or the 5.8+ a bit harder to raise it to a 5.9. Another possible solution would be to "mock lead" a toproped 5.9 route (ie: lots of slack in the line and phantom clipping procedure). I'll confide in some of my teammates and post the results here.
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