My First Outdoor Climbing Trip - Climbing Update 7

          I have spent the two days on my first outdoor climbing trip.  This was very exciting when I have been training at an indoor gym and group of friends invited me to come with them to Sandrock, Alabama for an overnight camping / climbing trip.  I was ecstatic!  I jumped on the chance to get some real rock experience.  I left Monday night, arriving and setting up camp, only a cool night repel that evening, then a sun-up to sun-down climb with a group of four people the next day.  You will find some of the highlight pictures scattered throughout this post.



Routes Climbed:
          The day started on My Dog Has Fleas (5.8+) as a lead climb with pre-placed draws.  I was not able to cleanly complete this route.  I took two attempts, falling on both, but completing the route on the second.  Next we moved to a short 5.8+ named Julory.  I was not able to cleanly complete the route (pre-placed gear) on the first attempt, however  I did do so on the second attempt.  Next we moved a couple anchors to the right to an unnamed 5.8 route.  I was able to complete this route cleanly on the first attempt with pre-placed gear.  Up to this point, our most experienced climber, though injured, was climbing these easy routes and placing gear for the rest of us.  One other gentleman and I were lead climbing the routes while the female in the group preferred to climb them via toprope.
          Next, we took a big step.  In the gym I am comfortable climbing a 5.9+ lead with pre-placed gear.  However, I seem to hit a wall when attempting a 5.10.  Our leader decided to work a project of his that he had not previously been able to attempt due to injury.  The route was Price is Right, a 5.11a. He did an awesome job of not only completing it cleanly, but by placing all the gear, and looking as good as ever!  Next was my turn, however, I opted to toprope this route; knowing that it was a bit out of my league.  The route was hard, but not impossible.  However, about halfway up, just getting to the crux, I fell from the overhang.  It was actually quite difficult to get back on the route after the fall and that pretty much sapped what strength I had left out of me.  The other guy in the group was not able to complete the route on toprope either, but he did get further than I and was able to clean the gear of the route.  Needless to say, this (as my friend who completed the route thought) would make a good project for the two of us to work on as a lead climb in the future, perhaps in the Spring Break (March) time frame.
          Next, we stayed in the same area to try the route Eight in the Hole (5.8).  This was a great climb to build back our confidence.  Our leader placed gear, the gents lead, and the female toproped.  All completed the route on their first attempt!  It was a great feeling to build back some team morale.
          For the last climb of the day, just as the sun was starting to set, we moved back to route that I had had my eye on from the start.  Kennel Club (5.8) was about 60ft tall and I was up first.  This time there would be no pre-placed gear.  That duty was left to me.  The route was hard, but not for the technical moves or lack of holds (though some were small), rather, the route forced me to be creative in my movements and that is what made it really elegant.  I completed the route cleanly on my first attempt without any prior beta (knowledge) or practice of the route!  Alas, my first true redpoint!  The other guy in the group also completed the route after I had placed the gear and our lady completed it on toprope.  This was especially important to her because in a previous attempt at the route (on a different trip) she was not able to complete it at all and had to give up on it.  Way to get some revenge girl!  It was truly a capstone climb to seal off our little mini-vacation.



Overall Experience
          The overall experience was incredible.  There is nothing like real rock!  As much as I love training in the gym, there is just something magical about the fresh air, the cold rock, the feel of chalked and sweaty faces and hands, all coming together in a whirlwind of intense physical, emotional, and mental triumphs and trials.  As far as the location goes, the site is about a two hour drive for me which makes it easily accessible several time throughout the school year.  As far as camping is concerned, it is a great place for climbers who are camping not for the joy of camping, but more or less because it comes with the territory of climbing.  Our vehicles were were within fifty yards of our campsite meaning we could leave all unneeded gear and food in them, and take only our climbing gear to the crag.  It really was an ideal set up especially considering that you can easily watch the sun rise over the village below right from your campsite!

Stay tuned for a publication of my future planned outings!



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