During my first outdoor climbing trip, a friend of mine who is a far better climber than I, easily climbed a 5.11a (my current project level is about a 5.9+ / 5.10) named "Price is Right" at Sandrock, AL. I attempted the route on toprope but could not complete it. I did make it about halfway up to where it really starts to get tough. Another climber that was with us failed to complete it on toprope as well, but made it further than I did. The climber who completed the route suggested that this become our new project to work towards completing. The other failed climber and I set the tentative goal of our (we attend the same university) spring break in March 2013 to complete "Price is Right" on a clean lead climb. The main stipulation was the goal of completing the route. Ideally this would be done on a lead route, but if lead cannot be done lead, then toprope is acceptable. Our spring break is scheduled for the week of March 18, 2013 which would include the final rest week of a 10 week training camp as well as the actual climbing trip itself.
During this coming month of December, our indoor climbing wall will be closed. However, this sets up nicely for me to work in an "off season" training and diet routine. After six (6) weeks off-season training I'll be able to jump right into a 10 week training camp prior to the spring break return to Sandrock and attack "Price is Right." The diet will be a fresh take on the recommendations I gained from Eric Horst's books. As much respect as I have for Horst as a climber, writer, and instructor, his dietary guidelines (I believe) are too specific to his body-type, metabolism, and genetics. I plan on using his guidelines as just that, a guideline, to guide my previous knowledge of my own body.
Off-Season Training Schedule (5 weeks)
This training is reflective of my previous post on self assessment. I would like to incorporate more running to try and force my body to shed some muscle mass as it is (at the basis) more weight I have to carry up a route that may not be necessary. However, my body is just not built for distance running. This is not an excuse but a matter of honesty. I experience intense lower back pain, shin splints, and heel spurs from running. As a result I will have to find other measures (such as diet and yoga) to work towards this end.
* The specific goals of this off-season are to A) increase finger strength, B) increase flexibility and intra-body tinsel strength, and C) lose excess muscle mass. You will find that there is a lot of repetition in these workouts which typically I am not a fan of and do prefer more advanced forms of muscle confusion. However, simplicity is valuable in the mental aspect of training.
Monday:
60 min Vinyasa Yoga
Hangboard (4 holds x 4 sets: weighted reps, unweighted reps, weighted hang, unweighted hang)
*Start w/ 2nd easiest of the 4, then hardest, 2nd hardest, easiest
Static stretching
Tuesday - Active Rest
60 min Hatha Yoga
*Cold shower for recovery
Wednesday - Same as Monday
Thursday - Same as Tuesday
Friday - Same as Monday and Wednesday
Saturday: - Strength & Conditioning
- 4 bodyweight exercises x 1 min ea
- rest 1 min
- 4 rounds then 5 min rest (6 min including last 1 min rest)
- 3 rounds then 5 min rest (6 min including last 1 min rest)
- 2 rounds then stretch
*Cold shower for recovery
**This may be replaced with an outdoor climbing trip (one) over the break which would substitute the "strength and endurance" day for that week.
Sunday - Full Rest Day
Off Season Diet Plan:
*This is taken almost ver betum out of Erick Horst's books' recommendation for a 160 lb climber; which is about what I weight, so that was convenient! GOAL: FREAKIN' RELAX! This is not a competition prep so there is no need to take the number so seriously. Take a chill pill, just keep body fat in the single digits and weight within 10% of where you want to be for your next competition [160 + (160 x 0.1) = 176]
Meal 1 - Starch (40g/c)
Meal 2 - Protein (20 g/p), 2 x 80g veggies
Meal 3 - Starch (40g/c), 2 x 80g veggies
Meal 4 (Pre-Workout) - Fruit (2 x 20g/c)
Meal 5 (During / Post-Workout) - < 400 cal fat free candy, whey protein (20g/p), green tea
Meal 6 - Starch (40g/c), protein (20g/p)
Meal 7 - Starch (40g/c), nuts (16g/f)
Supplements:
MetRX Natural Whey - 1 scoop daily
Universal Animal Flex (Joint Supplement) - 3 packs per week (M/W/F)
Cheating:
- One cheat meal per week
- can be buffet, but not an all-day eat-a-thon!
Dietary Notes:
This training is reflective of my previous post on self assessment. I would like to incorporate more running to try and force my body to shed some muscle mass as it is (at the basis) more weight I have to carry up a route that may not be necessary. However, my body is just not built for distance running. This is not an excuse but a matter of honesty. I experience intense lower back pain, shin splints, and heel spurs from running. As a result I will have to find other measures (such as diet and yoga) to work towards this end.
* The specific goals of this off-season are to A) increase finger strength, B) increase flexibility and intra-body tinsel strength, and C) lose excess muscle mass. You will find that there is a lot of repetition in these workouts which typically I am not a fan of and do prefer more advanced forms of muscle confusion. However, simplicity is valuable in the mental aspect of training.
Monday:
60 min Vinyasa Yoga
Hangboard (4 holds x 4 sets: weighted reps, unweighted reps, weighted hang, unweighted hang)
*Start w/ 2nd easiest of the 4, then hardest, 2nd hardest, easiest
Static stretching
Tuesday - Active Rest
60 min Hatha Yoga
*Cold shower for recovery
Wednesday - Same as Monday
Thursday - Same as Tuesday
Friday - Same as Monday and Wednesday
Saturday: - Strength & Conditioning
- 4 bodyweight exercises x 1 min ea
- rest 1 min
- 4 rounds then 5 min rest (6 min including last 1 min rest)
- 3 rounds then 5 min rest (6 min including last 1 min rest)
- 2 rounds then stretch
*Cold shower for recovery
**This may be replaced with an outdoor climbing trip (one) over the break which would substitute the "strength and endurance" day for that week.
Sunday - Full Rest Day
Off Season Diet Plan:
*This is taken almost ver betum out of Erick Horst's books' recommendation for a 160 lb climber; which is about what I weight, so that was convenient! GOAL: FREAKIN' RELAX! This is not a competition prep so there is no need to take the number so seriously. Take a chill pill, just keep body fat in the single digits and weight within 10% of where you want to be for your next competition [160 + (160 x 0.1) = 176]
Meal 1 - Starch (40g/c)
Meal 2 - Protein (20 g/p), 2 x 80g veggies
Meal 3 - Starch (40g/c), 2 x 80g veggies
Meal 4 (Pre-Workout) - Fruit (2 x 20g/c)
Meal 5 (During / Post-Workout) - < 400 cal fat free candy, whey protein (20g/p), green tea
Meal 6 - Starch (40g/c), protein (20g/p)
Meal 7 - Starch (40g/c), nuts (16g/f)
Supplements:
MetRX Natural Whey - 1 scoop daily
Universal Animal Flex (Joint Supplement) - 3 packs per week (M/W/F)
Cheating:
- One cheat meal per week
- can be buffet, but not an all-day eat-a-thon!
Dietary Notes:
- Honesty - I know my body pretty well, but I am willing to experiment with different ideas. I have modified Horst's suggestions and compiled them with what I've been experimenting with the last few weeks as well as the years of dieting experience that I have already gone through. The big difference for the off-season vs in-season is the acceptance of cheating. When in a training camp my diet is VERY strict. During the off season it is a bit more lax to give my body and brain a break from, perhaps too much, hard work. That is not to say that all the rules go out the window and I eat whatever I want, it just means that I don't panic about little "oopses" and take an all around more relaxed approach to the format of the diet. As far as day to day changes go, since I am doing something active almost every day of the week it is actually more simple to eat the same amount every day rather than worry about active vs non-active days and how much they add up.
- Supplementation - Horst recommends whey protein for various reasons and I have my own as well. I also chose to add a joint supplement to help with the load placed on tendons and bones in sports such as climbing and combat sports.
- Ice Baths - The benefits of ice baths in regards to recovery and immune function are well documented. The next best thing would be to take a cold shower. However, this is not very comfortable and is quite daunting to do every single day. So I have constrained it to my "Recovery Days."
- During / Post Workout Meal - Food actually takes a while to digest, especially if it is solid opposed to liquid. For this reason I will be beginning to consume my post-workout meal during my workout so that my body is making use of the nutrients by the time it actually needs them.
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