Off Season Week 4 - Climbing Update 13

12/24 - 12/30/2012 Notes:

Climbing:
          I broke from my regular training schedule this week to do some indoor climbing since I was heading into a rock gym / outdoor store anyway (see below).  My experience was not what I had expected.  I have no complaints about they gym, in fact it was quite epic, it is (after all) world renowned.  Rather my performance raised some interesting questions.  I was climbing mostly 5.9s which should be in my working pink/green-point ranges.  Some of the routes were overhung as a side note.  The Good:  I felt like my movement was not only fluid, but very technical, precise, intentional, and creative.  I did not fear small holds, showing that perhaps my door-frame hangboard sessions were paying off.  The Bad:  I pumped out ... hard.  At the cruxs and about halfway up others, I would always fall because my forearms were pumped out.  I'd rest for a minute or two and finish the route without much issue.  Analysis:  While I feel like my fingers have gotten stronger I believe that my forearms have (perhaps) atrophied over the last month when I have not been actually climbing.  In a sense, my forearms have lost the conditioning they gained while frequently climbing over the past few months.  One possible asterisk is that most of the routes I climbed were overhanging, making them more difficult to hold to.  This was something that I am not at all used to.  Now I have a different issue at hand (no pun intended).  While my fingers were weak and forearms strong, now my fingers and technique feel solid but my forearms need to regain a bit of conditioning.

New Shoes:
          Santa Claus brought me a new pair of climbing shoes for Christmas.  However, they were the wrong size... silly man.  Rather than have to return them and gamble on getting another size that might fit (FYI:  I'm switching brands, and every brand sizes differently) I made the trip into Atlanta to visit the store at the local rock gym to try on a few pair of shoes.  I was stuck between two pairs that both fit great, but one happened to be on sale :)  WIN!

Diet:
          I feel pretty good since having switched my diet to a much lower carb intake.  One should note that I'm not really on a "low carb" diet and certainly not a "carb free" diet.  However, the intake is limited and carefully organized to manipulate my insulin levels when my blood sugar runs low.  I feel like my body is just made to run better on high protein given that I have a stocky muscular build, especially for my height.  I feel fuller, and while there have been a few minor slip ups, in general my body/mind connection/reaction feels much better than when on the high carb diet.  Things are looking good so far.

Weather and Schedule:
          This week was a bit hectic, the weather played some funk on my training schedule.  While I don't mind shadowboxing in the rain (very few things feel cooler than that!), its a little different when the 40 degrees and raining than 60 or 70.  Also, my phone (ie:  my round timer) isn't too fond of the rain.
- weather messing with training schedule
- indoor climbing on Sat - felt smooth technical and crips, but VERY pumpy

Training Log

Monday:
Hangboard - 7/8" door frame; all sets 30 sec @ 1 min rest

• 2 hand, 4 finger, assisted hang x 3
• 1 hand, 4 finger, assisted reps x 2 each side
• 2 hand, 4 finger, assisted reps
• 2 hand, 4 finger, assisted hang x 2

Yoga - (I really  liked this one!)

Tuesday:

Circuit x 40 sec @ 20 sec rest

Weight Used = milk jug filled w/ water (apx. 8lbs)

Circuit done first as warm up, then once at full speed

• Elbow Plank w/ Alternating leg lift
• Tree Choppers (20 sec ea. side)
• Alternating Over Head Lunge
• Straight Leg Alternating Deadlift
• Push Press + Tricep Extension (from standing position)
• Goblet Squat
• Lawnmower Row (20 sec ea. side)
• Alternating Side Lunge w/ Touch
• Dumbbell Deadlift

Wednesday:

Hangboard - All sets = 45 sec @ 90sec rest

• 2 hand, 4 fingers, assisted hang x 2
• 2 hand, 4 fingers, assisted reps x 2
• 2 hand, 3 fingers, assisted hang x 2

Thursday:
If you don't mind some slightly cheesy pep-talking through it, this is an awesome yoga session!

Friday:
Rest day

Saturday:
Indoor Climbing at Stone Summit, Atlanta, GA

Sunday:
Shadow Boxing - 6 x 3 min rounds at 1 min rest

• Round 1 - Warm Up with a little of everything
• Round 2 - Straight Punch Combinations
• Round 3 - Add Hooks and Upper Cuts
• Round 4 - Kicking Combinations Only
• Round 5 - Defensive Maneuvers & Counters
• Round 6 - Full Combinations (punch, kick, knee, ... etc.)