Off Season Week 4 - Climbing Update 13

12/24 - 12/30/2012 Notes:

Climbing:
          I broke from my regular training schedule this week to do some indoor climbing since I was heading into a rock gym / outdoor store anyway (see below).  My experience was not what I had expected.  I have no complaints about they gym, in fact it was quite epic, it is (after all) world renowned.  Rather my performance raised some interesting questions.  I was climbing mostly 5.9s which should be in my working pink/green-point ranges.  Some of the routes were overhung as a side note.  The Good:  I felt like my movement was not only fluid, but very technical, precise, intentional, and creative.  I did not fear small holds, showing that perhaps my door-frame hangboard sessions were paying off.  The Bad:  I pumped out ... hard.  At the cruxs and about halfway up others, I would always fall because my forearms were pumped out.  I'd rest for a minute or two and finish the route without much issue.  Analysis:  While I feel like my fingers have gotten stronger I believe that my forearms have (perhaps) atrophied over the last month when I have not been actually climbing.  In a sense, my forearms have lost the conditioning they gained while frequently climbing over the past few months.  One possible asterisk is that most of the routes I climbed were overhanging, making them more difficult to hold to.  This was something that I am not at all used to.  Now I have a different issue at hand (no pun intended).  While my fingers were weak and forearms strong, now my fingers and technique feel solid but my forearms need to regain a bit of conditioning.

New Shoes:
          Santa Claus brought me a new pair of climbing shoes for Christmas.  However, they were the wrong size... silly man.  Rather than have to return them and gamble on getting another size that might fit (FYI:  I'm switching brands, and every brand sizes differently) I made the trip into Atlanta to visit the store at the local rock gym to try on a few pair of shoes.  I was stuck between two pairs that both fit great, but one happened to be on sale :)  WIN!

Diet:
          I feel pretty good since having switched my diet to a much lower carb intake.  One should note that I'm not really on a "low carb" diet and certainly not a "carb free" diet.  However, the intake is limited and carefully organized to manipulate my insulin levels when my blood sugar runs low.  I feel like my body is just made to run better on high protein given that I have a stocky muscular build, especially for my height.  I feel fuller, and while there have been a few minor slip ups, in general my body/mind connection/reaction feels much better than when on the high carb diet.  Things are looking good so far.

Weather and Schedule:
          This week was a bit hectic, the weather played some funk on my training schedule.  While I don't mind shadowboxing in the rain (very few things feel cooler than that!), its a little different when the 40 degrees and raining than 60 or 70.  Also, my phone (ie:  my round timer) isn't too fond of the rain.
- weather messing with training schedule
- indoor climbing on Sat - felt smooth technical and crips, but VERY pumpy

Training Log

Monday:
Hangboard - 7/8" door frame; all sets 30 sec @ 1 min rest

• 2 hand, 4 finger, assisted hang x 3
• 1 hand, 4 finger, assisted reps x 2 each side
• 2 hand, 4 finger, assisted reps
• 2 hand, 4 finger, assisted hang x 2

Yoga - (I really  liked this one!)

Tuesday:

Circuit x 40 sec @ 20 sec rest

Weight Used = milk jug filled w/ water (apx. 8lbs)

Circuit done first as warm up, then once at full speed

• Elbow Plank w/ Alternating leg lift
• Tree Choppers (20 sec ea. side)
• Alternating Over Head Lunge
• Straight Leg Alternating Deadlift
• Push Press + Tricep Extension (from standing position)
• Goblet Squat
• Lawnmower Row (20 sec ea. side)
• Alternating Side Lunge w/ Touch
• Dumbbell Deadlift

Wednesday:

Hangboard - All sets = 45 sec @ 90sec rest

• 2 hand, 4 fingers, assisted hang x 2
• 2 hand, 4 fingers, assisted reps x 2
• 2 hand, 3 fingers, assisted hang x 2

Thursday:
If you don't mind some slightly cheesy pep-talking through it, this is an awesome yoga session!

Friday:
Rest day

Saturday:
Indoor Climbing at Stone Summit, Atlanta, GA

Sunday:
Shadow Boxing - 6 x 3 min rounds at 1 min rest

• Round 1 - Warm Up with a little of everything
• Round 2 - Straight Punch Combinations
• Round 3 - Add Hooks and Upper Cuts
• Round 4 - Kicking Combinations Only
• Round 5 - Defensive Maneuvers & Counters
• Round 6 - Full Combinations (punch, kick, knee, ... etc.)

Off Season Week 3 - Climbing Update 12

12/17 - 12/23/2012

Notes:
         Hey folks, we've got some interesting analysis and changes this week.  To be honest, if you've been following this blog then you know that I've been trying a high carbohydrate diet as recommended by Eric Horst in his climbing guides.  I embarked on this journey as an attempt to validate myself as a truly open-sourced and open-minded athlete.  However, I jumped on the scale the other morning out of curiosity and much to my dismay it read 180 lbs.  Now, this is not terrible as I am still pretty lean (exact measurements not taken).  However, my goal is to be losing mass for climbing (in an attempt to increase strength:weight ratio).  It is fair to say that I've given the high carb diet a good solid try for a couple months.  Now, I will not go on bashing high-carb diets, but I will take a few paragraphs to explain some possible explanations for my weight gain.

• CarboHYDRATES - Part of the function of carbohydrates is to HYDRATE your body.  It is in the molecule's nature to retain water.  Thus, part of my weight gain could have resulted from added water retention from the high carbohydrate intake.  This is also true of many people who go on low-carbohydrate diets, only in reverse.  A significant amount of weight can be lost from reducing water retention and typical this is the initial result of beginning a low carb diet.
• Decreased Cardiovascular Activity - There is no doubt that climbing has opened a whole new challenge for my body.  However, I simply do not have the same caloric burn or cardiac elevation that I do when fighting (or training therein).  This decreased "activity" level results in less energy being burned during workouts.  Another thing to consider in this category is that for the last month (not quite) I have been on break from school.  This means that my no-workout related activities have also decreased.  I am not riding my bike 10 miles per day to commute to school, I'm not walking around campus, and I'm largely stagnant other than moderate activity levels while working.
• Holiday Boredom and Stress - Emotional eating is real.  The chemicals in our brain can directly relate to our appetite.  In other words, some people take comfort in food.  Why?  Well, carbohydrates increase serotonin (happy chemical) production in the brain.  Many people also eat when they are stressed.  These both have been the case for me over the holiday break from school.  Boredom from in-activity levels and stress from having too much time on my hands to over-worry about my career, bills, schooling, health, family, etc...

Target Ketogenic Diet

           A diet that I have found effective in the past is called a Target Ketogenic Diet.  Now, Ketones are energy particles created from fat sources that your body uses when carbohydrate sources are not available.  Low-carbohydrate diets force your body to run on ketones, hence, they are ketogenic.  I would advise this type of diet for persons who are largely sedentary.  However, for intense exercisers, a slightly different approach needs to be taken to fuel and recover from those grueling workouts.  The trick is to not say "no" to carbs, but to control them and control your body's resulting insulin levels.  This is done by allowing some carbohydrates when your blood sugar is low and energy is needed.  For example; first thing in the morning, about an hour before your workout, and immediately following your workout.  Some reference material can be found below: 

http://www.bodybuilding.com/fun/sclark86.htm

http://www.4hourlife.com/2011/06/01/targeted-ketogenesis-exercise-and-the-4-hour-body-slow-carb-diet/

Target Ketogenic Diet Setup:
Goal Weight - 160 lbs
Total Calories - 14 to 16 x bodyweight = 14 x 160 = 2240 calories
Protein - 1:1; grams:lbs - 160g / day = 640 calories
Fat - 0.5:1 grams:lbs - 80g / day = 720 calories
Carbs - Total Calories (2240) - Protein Calories (640) - Fat Calories (720) = 880 calories / 4 = 220 grams / day
*50% of carbohydrates to be consumed pre/post workout (25% each) = 55g pre-workout and 55g post-workout; remaining 110g spread through other 4 meals of the day (6 meals total) for 28g carb each meal.
** 1 cheat / refeed day per week :  Mostly carbohydrates to refuel glycogen supplies.

Sticky Diet (starting 12/21/2012):
Pre-Workout - 60g Starch
Post-Workout - 40g Starch
                          20g Protein (whey)
Breakfast - 30g Starch
2 x 20g/c Fruit
4 x 5g/c Vegetables
2 x 20g/p Fish
2 x 20g/p Poultry
1 x 20g/p Red Meat
1 x 20g/f Nuts
Supplements - Whey Protein (MetRx Natural Whey 1 scoop / day)
                        Joint Supplement - 3 packs per week (Universal Animal Flex)
**1 Cheat / Refeed day per week to replenish Glycogen supplies (mostly carbs)**

Training Log:

Monday:
Shadowboxing -
Hangboard -> 20 second rounds w/ 1 min rests:

• 2 hand, 4 finger unassisted hang x 2
• 2 hand, 4 finger assisted hang x 3
• 2 hand, 3 finger assisted hang x 2
• 2 hand, 4 finger assisted reps x 3

Tuesday:

Wednesday:

Shadowboxing - 5 x 5 min rounds @ 1 min rest

• Movement only, no punches
• Full boxing combinations
• Kicking combinations only
• Kick-Knee-Punch combinations

Hangboard - all w/ 2 hands, 4 fingers, assisted hang

• 1 x 1 min @ 1 min rest
• 3 x 40 sec @ 1 min rest
• 3 x 30 sec @ 1 min rest
• 3 x 15 sec @ 30 sec rest

Thursday:

Yoga - Freestyle, randomly selected poses and transitions

Friday:

Hangboard - all w/ 2 hands, assisted, 2 sets of each x 30 sec @ 1 min rest

• 4 fingers
• 3 fingers
• index and middle fingers
• middle and ring fingers
• ring and pinky fingers
• 4 fingers (single set)

Shadowboxing - 3 x 6 min @ 1 min rest:  Rounds = Boxing, Kicking Combos, Full Thai

Saturday:

50/40/30/20/10 reps of each, no rest, all sets back to back

- push ups

- air squats

- bent over flies

- standing reversed leg lifts

Off Season Week 2 - Climbing Update 11

12/10 - 12/16/2012

Notes:
          This was a good week.  I felt pretty solid in my climbing training.  However, I did change up my microcycle training schedule because I felt that I needed some more cardiovascular training.  I am still trying to implement plenty of yoga as I greatly enjoy it and think it relates great to my Jiu Jitsu and Rock Climbing.  I felt like I required a more intensive style of training so I added some shadowboxing and Jiu Jitsu drills to my training.  I really feel like this is an optimal set up for an Off-Season training program where there is a little bit of everything in contrast to a training camp where you focus specifically on one sport or objective.  You can see the new changes below in the "New Microcycle" section.  In addition the cold showers for recovery have been dropped.  While they are quite beneficial they are pretty unnpleasent and a bit taxing on the nervous system.  The goal of off-season training should not be to max out your training capacity, but to re-examine your current practices and tone down the training to a more long-term sustainable training schedule.

Monday:
Hangboard (7/8" door frame) - Unweighted
20 second rounds w/ 1 min rest

• 4 finger 2 hand hang, assisted
• 4 finger 2 hand hang, unassisted
• 4 finger 1 hand hang, assisted (repeat other side)
• 3 finger 1 hand hang, assisted (repeat other side)
• Index-Middle hang, 2 hand, assisted
• Middle-Ring hang, 2 hand, assisted
• Ring-Pinky hang, 2 hand, assisted
• 3 finger, 1 hand hang, assisted (repeat other side)
• 4 finger, 1 hand hang, assisted (repeat other side)
• 4 finger, 2 hand hang, unassisted
• 4 finger, 2 hand hang, assisted

Yoga - >

Tuesday:

Wednesday:
Yoga - 5 x Sun Salutations (A & B) each; a few other "flow" poses
Shadowboxing Rounds

1. Little Bit of Everything, Mostly straight punches
2. Slipping and weaving w/ combinations
3. Add hooking and uppercut combinations
4. Full boxing combinations
5. Add kicking combinations

Hangboard:  30 sec rounds @ 1 min rests

• 2 hand, 4 finger, assisted hang
• 2 hand, 4 finger, unassisted hang
• 2 hand, 4 finger, assisted reps
• 2 hand, 3 finger, assisted reps
• 2 hand, 2 finger (IM, MR, RP ea.), assisted reps
• 2 hand, 3 finger, assisted hang
• 2 hand, 4 finger, assisted hang

Thursday:

          This was a long day at work... admittedly, I caved and skipped on my workout.

Friday:
Warm Up - Quick Yoga
Shadowboxing - 5 x 5 min @ 1 min rest (Rounds:  Movement only / no punches - Straight Combos - Add hooks and uppercuts - kick / punch combos only - add knees)
Hangboard - 20 sec hang @ 1 min rest

• 2 x 2 hand, 4 finger unassisted
• 2 x 2 hand, 4 finger assisted
• 2 x 2 hand, 3 finger assisted
• 1 hand, 4 finger assisted (each side)
• 2 hand, 2 finger (IM, MR, RP ea.) assisted

Saturday

Push Ups, Bent-Over Rows, Lunges
- 60 x 20 sec @ 10 sec rest ea.


New Microcycle (Effective 12/11/2012:

Monday:
Warm Up - 15 minutes solo Jiu Jitsu drills
5 x 5 min Shadowboxing @ 1 min rests
Warm Down - Hangboard

Tuesday - Active Rest
60 min Vinyasa Yoga
Cold Shower for recovery

Wednesday:
Warm Up - 15 min short yoga
5 x 5 min shadowboxing
Warm Down - Hangboard

Thursday:  (Same as Tuesday)

Friday:  (Same as Monday)

Saturday - Strength and Conditioning
Crossfit-styled workout

Sunday - Total Rest Day
Watch Climbing and Jits Videos




Follow me on Twitter @Savaged_Zen

Off Season Week 1 - Climbing Update 10

12/3 - 12/9/2012

NOTES:
         This was a good week to start off my off-season training.  I feel like the schedule I set for myself will set up nicely with a ton of yoga, regular hangboarding, and a clean (but not too strict of a) diet.  Hangboard exercises this week were done on a simple 7/8" door frame.  Assisted pullups / reps were done with my feet on a chair.  Assisted hangs only require dragging my toes on the ground but trying to lift my knees while hanging and keep as much weight on my fingers as I can.


Monday:
Hangboard (unweighted)
          Holds:  4 finger crimp, 3 finger crimp, index-middle crimp, index-ring crimp
          Round 1 - 15 sec assisted reps x 15 sec; 30 sec rest
          Round 2 - 15 sec assisted hang x 15 sec; 30 sec rest
          Round 3 - 15 sec assisted (if needed) hang x 15 sec; 30 sec rest
Yoga - "BaptistePowerYoga3" from yogadownload.com (60 min)
          Background Music = http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Km5pxTDcVRQ
          *I could not do all of the poses so it actually only took me about 45 - 50 min

Tuesday:
Full Recovery Day - I didn't actually need a full rest day, just the circumstances of the day (final exams and work and such) kept my pretty go-go-go, so Sunday's scheduled Full Recovery will be swapped with Tuesday's (missing) Active Recovery.

Wednesday:
       This was one of the last days that the rock wall was open for the semester, so I enjoyed an hour or two of bouldering instead of my planned hangboard and yoga work.  It was well worth it :)

Thursday:

Friday:

Hangboard (unweighted) - 20 sec intervals w/ 1 min rest

          2 hands, 4 fingers open hand x 2 (unassisted)

          2 hands, 3 finger (I/M/R) open hand x 2 (assisted)

          2 hands, 2 finger (I/M) open hand x 2 (assisted)

          2 hands, 2 finger (M/R) open hand x 2 (assisted)

          2 hands, 2 finger (R/P) open hand x 2 (assisted)

          Right hand, 4 fingers open hand x 2 (assisted)

          Left hand, 4 fingers open hand x 2 (assisted)

          2 hands, 4 fingers open hand x 2 (assisted)

Yoga - http://www.doyogawithme.com/content/beginner-basics-flow

*This was a really good video, challenging, but definitely not too intense.  The instructor did an EXCELLENT job of explaining proper positioning for the  poses.  I bookmarked it, you should do the same :)

Saturday:

* I was feeling a bit strained from the last few workouts, just a matter of my core getting a lot of abuse.  I'm certainly enjoying the yoga workout and they seem to be a nice fit for the goals of my off-season training.  I did some very light yoga today before finding out that I need a bit of time to re-adjust to these types of workouts.

Sunday:

Light Yoga - http://www.doyogawithme.com/content/restoring-equilibrium

Follow me on Twitter @Savaged_Zen

Off Season 2012 Plans - Climbing Update 9

December 2012:
          During my first outdoor climbing trip, a friend of mine who is a far better climber than I, easily climbed a 5.11a (my current project level is about a 5.9+ / 5.10) named "Price is Right" at Sandrock, AL.  I attempted the route on toprope but could not complete it.  I did make it about halfway up to where it really starts to get tough.  Another climber that was with us failed to complete it on toprope as well, but made it further than I did.  The climber who completed the route suggested that this become our new project to work towards completing.  The other failed climber and I set the tentative goal of our (we attend the same university) spring break in March 2013 to complete "Price is Right" on a clean lead climb.  The main stipulation was the goal of completing the route.  Ideally this would be done on a lead route, but if lead cannot be done lead, then toprope is acceptable.  Our spring break is scheduled for the week of March 18, 2013 which would include the final rest week of a 10 week training camp as well as the actual climbing trip itself.
          During this coming month of December, our indoor climbing wall will be closed.  However, this sets up nicely for me to work in an "off season" training and diet routine.  After six (6) weeks off-season training I'll be able to jump right into a 10 week training camp prior to the spring break return to Sandrock and attack "Price is Right."  The diet will be a fresh take on the recommendations I gained from Eric Horst's books.  As much respect as I have for Horst as a climber, writer, and instructor, his dietary guidelines (I believe) are too specific to his body-type, metabolism, and genetics.  I plan on using his guidelines as just that, a guideline, to guide my previous knowledge of my own body.

Off-Season Training Schedule (5 weeks)
          This training is reflective of my previous post on self assessment.  I would like to incorporate more running to try and force my body to shed some muscle mass as it is (at the basis) more weight I have to carry up a route that may not be necessary.  However, my body is just not built for distance running.  This is not an excuse but a matter of honesty.  I experience intense lower back pain, shin splints, and heel spurs from running.  As a result I will have to find other measures (such as diet and yoga) to work towards this end.
*  The specific goals of this off-season are to A) increase finger strength, B) increase flexibility and intra-body tinsel strength, and C) lose excess muscle mass.  You will find that there is a lot of repetition in these workouts which typically I am not a fan of and do prefer more advanced forms of muscle confusion.  However, simplicity is valuable in the mental aspect of training.

Monday:
60 min Vinyasa Yoga
Hangboard (4 holds x 4 sets:  weighted reps, unweighted reps, weighted hang, unweighted hang)
          *Start w/ 2nd easiest of the 4, then hardest, 2nd hardest, easiest
Static stretching

Tuesday - Active Rest
60 min Hatha Yoga
*Cold shower for recovery

Wednesday - Same as Monday

Thursday - Same as Tuesday

Friday - Same as Monday and Wednesday

Saturday: - Strength & Conditioning
- 4 bodyweight exercises x 1 min ea
- rest 1 min
- 4 rounds then 5 min rest (6 min including last 1 min rest)
- 3 rounds then 5 min rest (6 min including last 1 min rest)
- 2 rounds then stretch
*Cold shower for recovery
**This may be replaced with an outdoor climbing trip (one) over the break which would substitute the "strength and endurance" day for that week.

Sunday - Full Rest Day


Off Season Diet Plan:
*This is taken almost ver betum out of Erick Horst's books' recommendation for a 160 lb climber; which is about what I weight, so that was convenient! GOAL:  FREAKIN' RELAX!  This is not a competition prep so there is no need to take the number so seriously.  Take a chill pill, just keep body fat in the single digits and weight within 10% of where you want to be for your next competition [160 + (160 x 0.1) = 176]

Meal 1 - Starch (40g/c)
Meal 2 - Protein (20 g/p), 2 x 80g veggies
Meal 3 - Starch (40g/c), 2 x 80g veggies
Meal 4 (Pre-Workout) - Fruit (2 x 20g/c)
Meal 5 (During / Post-Workout) - < 400 cal fat free candy, whey protein (20g/p), green tea
Meal 6 - Starch (40g/c), protein (20g/p)
Meal 7 - Starch (40g/c), nuts (16g/f)

Supplements:
MetRX Natural Whey - 1 scoop daily
Universal Animal Flex (Joint Supplement) - 3 packs per week (M/W/F)

Cheating:
- One cheat meal per week
- can be buffet, but not an all-day eat-a-thon!





Dietary Notes:

• Honesty - I know my body pretty well, but I am willing to experiment with different ideas.  I have modified Horst's suggestions and compiled them with what I've been experimenting with the last few weeks as well as the years of dieting experience that I have already gone through.  The big difference for the off-season vs in-season is the acceptance of cheating.  When in a training camp my diet is VERY strict.  During the off season it is a bit more lax to give my body and brain a break from, perhaps too much, hard work.  That is not to say that all the rules go out the window and I eat whatever I want, it just means that I don't panic about little "oopses" and take an all around more relaxed approach to the format of the diet.  As far as day to day changes go, since I am doing something active almost every day of the week it is actually more simple to eat the same amount every day rather than worry about active vs non-active days and how much they add up.
• Supplementation - Horst recommends whey protein for various reasons and I have my own as well.  I also chose to add a joint supplement to help with the load placed on tendons and bones in sports such as climbing and combat sports.  
• Ice Baths - The benefits of ice baths in regards to recovery and immune function are well documented.  The next best thing would be to take a cold shower.  However, this is not very comfortable and is quite daunting to do every single day.  So I have constrained it to my "Recovery Days."
• During / Post Workout Meal - Food actually takes a while to digest, especially if it is solid opposed to liquid.  For this reason I will be beginning to consume my post-workout meal during my workout so that my body is making use of the nutrients by the time it actually needs them.

Self Assessment - Climbing Update 8

         In "How to Climb 5.12" Eric Horst details a Self Assesement Exam.  The contents of which have been copied below and include my results at the present time.  I have now been indoor rock climbing regularly for about two months and have my first outdoor climbing trip under my belt.  Taking this past Thanksgiving (much thanks indeed) break from school I've had some time to reflect on my climbing progress.


Highest Grade - Indoor / Toprope / Clean - 5.9+
Highest Grade - Indoor / Toprope / Dirty - 5.10
Highest Grade - Indoor / Lead / Clean - 5.9+
Highest Grade - Outdoor / Lead / Clean - 5.8
Highest Grade - Outdoor / Lead / Dirty - 5.8+


Self Assessment:
*answers from 0 (always) to 5 (never)
** Results in bold print

1. My footwork (use of feet) deteriorates during the hardest part of the climb - 3
2. My forearms balloon and my grip begins to fail even on routes that are easy for me - 4
3. On hard sequences, I have difficulty stepping onto critical footholds - 4
4. I get anxious and tight as I head into crux sequences - 2
5. My biceps pump out before my fore arms - 5
6. I have difficulty hanging on small, necessary-to-use holds - 2
7. I blog sequences I have wired and know by heart - 3
8. I stall at the start of crux sequences - 2
9. I climb three or four days in a row - 3
10. I get sewing-machine-leg (Elvis leg) - 4
11. I pump out on overhanging climbs no matter how big the holds - 2
12. I get out of breath when I climb - 5 
13. I make excuses for why I might fail on a route before I even begin to climb - 4
14. I miss hidden holds on routes - 2
15. I have difficulty hanging on to small sloping holds or pockets - 1
16. I grab gear instead of risking a fall trying a hard move of which I am unsure - 5
17. On a typical climb, I feel like much of my body weight is hanging on my arms - 3
18. I get very sore the day after climbing at the crags - 3
19. I have difficulty visualizing myself successfully climbing the route before I leave the ground - 4
20. I cannot reach key holds on difficult routes - 2
21. On overhanging routes I have difficulty keeping my feet from cutting loose and swinging out - 4
22. While climbing I get distracted by activity on the ground - 5
23. I have difficulty reading sequences - 3
24. I get a flash pump on the first climb of the day - 2
25. I have more difficulty climbing when people are watching - 4
26. My feet unexpectedly pop off footholds - 4
27. I experience elbow pain when I climb on a regular basis - 2
28. When lead climbing a safe route, I have difficulty pushing myself to the complete limit - 5
29. I have difficulty finding midroute rest positions and shakeouts - 4
30. My first attempt on a hard route is usually better than my second or third attempts - 2

Scoring (Higher is better, each section is out of 50 possible points)

Questions 1, 4, 7, 10, 13, 16, 19, 22, 25, 28 = Mental Score = 39 / 50 = 78%

Questions 2, 5, 8, 11, 14, 17, 20, 23, 26, 29 = Technique Score = 31 / 50 = 62%

Questions 3, 6, 9, 12, 15, 18, 21, 24, 27, 30 = Physical Score - 28 / 50 = 56%

Evaluation and Suggestions:
*Key Points / Suggestions in bold italic font

Mental Score - I scored much higher than I thought here.  I typically think of myself as a very cerebral athlete, but some aspects of climbing are a whole different ball game.  They don't really psyche me out, but sometimes I feel like I can't quite put all the peices together.  Regardless, the results of the assesement show that I'm most prepared in this category and other defficiencies must be addressed first.

Technical Score - This is about where I thought I would score.  I by no means climb "hard."  I have only been climbing (recreationally) full time for two moths, so I would certainly not expect to learn everything in that short period of time.  However, I feel that I am learning fast and making solid progress in my technical ability as a climber.

Physical Score - I was quite surprised to score this low on this section.  While I consider myself fit and am very muscular and lean, climbing fitness is totally differnt than anything I have done before.  It takes strength-to-weight ratios to an all new level.  Not only is access fat bad, but access muscle is also more weight you have to carry up the route straining your fingers, joints, and ligaments.  My low score here does not mean that I am out of shape, it simply means that my body hasn't accostomed itself to a climbing form yet.  In terms of endurance and power I do not feel that I am lacking.  But sheer finger strength is an issue considering my short, compact, and heavily muscled frame.

Notes From the Judges at my Team Try Out  - 
*Team Qualifications have not yet been posted.
          Sport - Don't be afraid to just climb, don't think too much.  Hands look solid.  Good job keeping your toes on, try to make moves faster.  Too much hesitation.  Good throws, be careful (not) to stay in one place too long.
          Bouldering - Good hands, core work is solid.  Good job keeping yourself against the boulder.  Very good sit starts.  Don't be afraid of crimps!  Make sure your feet are on before making big moves. Don't make moves bigger than they are!


Clarification of Terminology:
         I just want to make a few notes to my record keeping.  There was a bit of erroneous terminology on my part in previous posts.  The corrections are listed below, and future records will relate the change  but previously published posts will not be retroactively refurbished.
Greenpoint - clean, toprope climb, multiple attempts and beta allowed
Pinkpoint - clean lead climb, pre-placed protection, multiple attempts and beta allowed
Redpoint - clean lead climb, place pro yourself, multiple attempts allowed, no beta
Falsh - clean lead climb, first attempt, beta but no practice, place own protection
Onsight - clean lead climb, no practice or beta, place own protection

My First Outdoor Climbing Trip - Climbing Update 7

          I have spent the two days on my first outdoor climbing trip.  This was very exciting when I have been training at an indoor gym and group of friends invited me to come with them to Sandrock, Alabama for an overnight camping / climbing trip.  I was ecstatic!  I jumped on the chance to get some real rock experience.  I left Monday night, arriving and setting up camp, only a cool night repel that evening, then a sun-up to sun-down climb with a group of four people the next day.  You will find some of the highlight pictures scattered throughout this post.



Routes Climbed:
          The day started on My Dog Has Fleas (5.8+) as a lead climb with pre-placed draws.  I was not able to cleanly complete this route.  I took two attempts, falling on both, but completing the route on the second.  Next we moved to a short 5.8+ named Julory.  I was not able to cleanly complete the route (pre-placed gear) on the first attempt, however  I did do so on the second attempt.  Next we moved a couple anchors to the right to an unnamed 5.8 route.  I was able to complete this route cleanly on the first attempt with pre-placed gear.  Up to this point, our most experienced climber, though injured, was climbing these easy routes and placing gear for the rest of us.  One other gentleman and I were lead climbing the routes while the female in the group preferred to climb them via toprope.
          Next, we took a big step.  In the gym I am comfortable climbing a 5.9+ lead with pre-placed gear.  However, I seem to hit a wall when attempting a 5.10.  Our leader decided to work a project of his that he had not previously been able to attempt due to injury.  The route was Price is Right, a 5.11a. He did an awesome job of not only completing it cleanly, but by placing all the gear, and looking as good as ever!  Next was my turn, however, I opted to toprope this route; knowing that it was a bit out of my league.  The route was hard, but not impossible.  However, about halfway up, just getting to the crux, I fell from the overhang.  It was actually quite difficult to get back on the route after the fall and that pretty much sapped what strength I had left out of me.  The other guy in the group was not able to complete the route on toprope either, but he did get further than I and was able to clean the gear of the route.  Needless to say, this (as my friend who completed the route thought) would make a good project for the two of us to work on as a lead climb in the future, perhaps in the Spring Break (March) time frame.
          Next, we stayed in the same area to try the route Eight in the Hole (5.8).  This was a great climb to build back our confidence.  Our leader placed gear, the gents lead, and the female toproped.  All completed the route on their first attempt!  It was a great feeling to build back some team morale.
          For the last climb of the day, just as the sun was starting to set, we moved back to route that I had had my eye on from the start.  Kennel Club (5.8) was about 60ft tall and I was up first.  This time there would be no pre-placed gear.  That duty was left to me.  The route was hard, but not for the technical moves or lack of holds (though some were small), rather, the route forced me to be creative in my movements and that is what made it really elegant.  I completed the route cleanly on my first attempt without any prior beta (knowledge) or practice of the route!  Alas, my first true redpoint!  The other guy in the group also completed the route after I had placed the gear and our lady completed it on toprope.  This was especially important to her because in a previous attempt at the route (on a different trip) she was not able to complete it at all and had to give up on it.  Way to get some revenge girl!  It was truly a capstone climb to seal off our little mini-vacation.



Overall Experience
          The overall experience was incredible.  There is nothing like real rock!  As much as I love training in the gym, there is just something magical about the fresh air, the cold rock, the feel of chalked and sweaty faces and hands, all coming together in a whirlwind of intense physical, emotional, and mental triumphs and trials.  As far as the location goes, the site is about a two hour drive for me which makes it easily accessible several time throughout the school year.  As far as camping is concerned, it is a great place for climbers who are camping not for the joy of camping, but more or less because it comes with the territory of climbing.  Our vehicles were were within fifty yards of our campsite meaning we could leave all unneeded gear and food in them, and take only our climbing gear to the crag.  It really was an ideal set up especially considering that you can easily watch the sun rise over the village below right from your campsite!

Stay tuned for a publication of my future planned outings!



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Climbing Training Update 6 (11/17/12)

Training Notes:
          Needing Some Rest (11/8/12) - I have been pushing it pretty hard the last couple days, working at or near my limit a few days in a row has taken its toll on me.  Today (Thurs 11/4) I tried a couple hard routes and just wasn't "feeling it."  I think that I'll be best off taking a couple days off (Friday and Saturday) and then hitting it hard on Sunday and Monday.  I was just informed today that our Climbing Club here will be hosting Climbing TEAM try-outs next week.  So, following rest on Friday and Saturday, hard climbing on Sunday and Monday, I'll take Tuesday and Wednesday off again to be primed for the try-outs in the later part of the week.  I'll then begin my official rest week which ill include my first outdoor climbing trip and a self-assessement test as prescribed by Eric Horts book "How to Climb a 5.12".
          Alleviating Training Schedule Complications (11/15/12) - I am doing some major work towards un-complicating my training schedule.  This is not unsimilar to the changes I'm making in my diet.  There is no concrete plan at the moment, but I'll be taking the next couple week to test things out before posting a dedicated plan.  Essentially it is extremely complicated to have a huge list of things to do every day and no day ever being the same.  A routine should not be stressful or complicated in its organization, to do so is to jeopardize the longevity of the program.
          But First, A Couple Weeks of Fun (11/17/12) - Last night I participated in the University of West Georgia Climbing Club team try-outs.  The session was extremely challenging, though not impossible.  It was defiantly hard and pushed me both mentally and physically.  I'll have more on this later as the try-outs will resume after school resumes after the following Thanksgiving Break next week.  Some of my previously aimed goals for this mini-cycle were not completed.  However, I think that is important to re-invest ourselves in the love of a sport and just do it because we love it, sometimes without any particular goal in mind.  I'll begin my "official" off-season workout routine once the rock wall closes for the winter break on December 7.  In the mean time, my "goal" is to just have fun, push my limits a bit, and simply enjoy rock climbing for rock climbing's sake without trying to reach a particular goal within these next few weeks.




Diet Notes:
          Still Having Some Issues (11/13/12) - I'm still having some problems sticking to the diets I've laid out, which explains the frequent changes in order to honestly adjust when it is needed.  Look forward to the "Self Assessment" post linked above for more detail as to the new diet that I began today.  The diet portion of the post will be in retrospect, but there will be some good information there explaining the changes I've made and the psychological as well as scientific reasoning behind them.  I'll be taking the next week or two to fine tune the adjustments I've made before posting an "ironed-out" plan here.



11/4 - 11/18/12 Goals:
1 x 5.10 indoor-clean-toprope (complete date / not completed)
2 x 5.8 indoor-clean-lead (*see pyramids below for date)
4 x 5.9 indoor-clean-lead (completed date / not completed)
2 x 5.9+ indoor-clean-lead (completed / not completed)


Highest Grades Completed:
Indoor - Toprope - Dirty - 5.10
Indoor - Toprope - Clean - 5.9+
Indoor - Lead - Clean - 5.9+


Grade Pyramids (Clean - Indoor - Toprope):
5.8 (1) - 9/21
5.8 (2, 3) - 9/24
5.8 (4, 5, 6) - 9/25
5.8 (7) - 9/27
5.8 (8) - 9/28
5.9 (1) - 10/10
5.9 (2) - 10/12
5.9 (3) - 10/15
5.9 (4) - 10/17
5.9+ (1) - 10/17
5.9+ (2) - 10/17
5.10 (1) - not yet completed



Grade Pyramids (Clean - Indoor - Lead):
5.8 (1) - 11/2
5.8 (2, 3, 4) - 11/4
5.8 (5, 6) - 11/5
5.8 (7, 8) - 11/7
5.9 (1, 2) - 11/11
5.9 x (3, 4) - 11/12
5.9+ (1) - 11/7
5.9+ (2) - not yet completed


Long Yoga Session:
          This week's yoga was cut out due to some very intense climbing and the need for some total rest days.  However, the morning yoga session previously outlined were still conducted.


UWG Climbing Team Try-Outs:
Separate post coming in the future.  Link will be provided when it is completed.


Self Assessment Exam:
Separate post coming in the future.  Link will be provided when it is completed.





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In a Hurry? Workouts on the Run - 11/10/11 republication

          Whether it has been on vacation, a business trip, or that you're just pinched for time; I think we have all tried (at one time or another) to use the excuse that we don't have enough time to or are too busy to fit a workout into our daily schedule.  Whether this is a daily obstacle or just a here-and-there speed bump, there is a solution for you.
          I am not typically a fan of fitness magazines in general due to financial endorsements and bias, but now and then I come across something I feel is worth passing on.  Men's Fitness recently ran a few articles that, for what it's worth, have my "seal of approval."  You will find my comments in italic font.

In a Hurry is NOT an excuse:
The particular workouts as prescribed in the article are as follows.

10 Minute Workout:
1) Woodchop with resistance band - 2 sets of 12-15 reps
2) Push Ups - 2 sets of 10 reps
3) Jump Push Up (hand and feet both leave the ground at top of rep) - 2 sets of2 10 reps
4) Walking Push Up (from push up position:  walk on your hands, dragging your feet.  One "step" = one rep) - 2 sets of 10-12 reps
5) Ice Skater (Stand on one leg, keep back in natural position, bend forward at the hip, raise one leg off the ground and touch same-side hand to the ground as far in front of you as possible) - 2 sets of 8-10 reps (each side)
6) Plyo Lunge (Jump from lunge position rather than stand) - 2 sets of 12 reps (each side)
7) Stationary Lunge - 2 sets of 12 reps (each side)

20 Minute Workout:
1) Banded woodchop - 2 sets of 12-15 reps
2) 10 x 20 yrd sprint (walking from finish back to start)
3) Push Up + Row (hands grip kettlebell or dumbbell, at top of push up pull one weight up to your chest then repeat with other side; that's one rep) - 2 sets of 8-10 reps
4) Cobra to Superman ("Bend forward at the hips, squatting slightly, and reach your arms out in front of you with palms down.  Hold for 10 seconds then reach your arms behind you and turn your palms up and hold for 10 seconds") - 2 reps of 5-10 seconds
5) Reverse Grip Row (Bent over row with dumbbells or kettlebells, palms facing out) - 2 sets of 15 reps
6) Reverse Flye ("Hold a dumbbell in each hand and stand on one leg.  Bend forward at the hips so your arms hang straight down.  Raise the weights to your sides") - 2 sets of 20 reps
7) Band Lateral Raise (Stand on a resistance band, holding one handle in each hand and raise it to your sides, both at the same time) - 3 sets of 12-15 reps
8) Dumbbell Curl - 2 sets of 20 reps (each side)
9) Dumbbell Band Kickback ("Hold a dumbbell in one hand and the end of an anchored band.  Keeping your elbow close to your side, extend your arm behind you") - 2 sets of 20 reps (each side)
10) Band Lateral Rotation ("Hold the end of a band in each hand and bend your elbows 90 degrees.  Pull the band apart") - 3 sets of 20 reps
          How did it get my "seal"?  A lot of these movements are done standing.  This means that a lot of your body is involved with each and every movement.  Also, the small stabilizing muscles in your body are also getting a workout as you have to maintain body tension throughout (though the bands to provide some stability as a cable would compared to free weights)
          Variations:  Obviously these can all be done with a variety of set/rep/load and work/rest ratios.  Feel free to mix it up   These should be ONLY taken as an outline for you to take and mold to your own needs.
           Other Ideas:  I remember reading a long time ago on the rossboxing.com forum about a simple 5 minute (or so) workout.  The process was simply to pick four exercises (or more if you have time).  The reps/sets were prescribed as max reps in a given time interval.  For example, you would do exercise one, two, three, and four all back-to-back for (instance) 60 seconds each.  WITHOUT REST go back to the first exercise and repeat, doing each for 45 seconds.  Continue this progression until you reach your maximum total time or 5 second sets.  To begin,  decide how much time you have to workout.  Then do the math to see what the max time per exercise is that you can start with, figuring in the other sets, and still meet your deadline.

The Hotel Workout:
          Prescription:  Perform each exercise for 30 seconds, resting as little as possible (or not at all) between exercises and sets.
          The initial plan prescribes doing all upper body exercises first, followed by the lower body series.  However, at a high enough intensity, fatigue and lactic acid build up will start to take effect.  It may be a good idea to alternate between upper and lower body exercises.

1) Push Up (or any variation you'd like)
2) Seagull - "Get into push-up position and then bend your elbows 90 degrees so your forearms lie flat. 
          Keeping your body in a straight line, reach one arm straight out to the side as you balance on the
          other.  Then reach forward.  Continue for 15 seconds and then repeat on the other arm"
3) High Five - "Lie on your back on the bed and plant your feet flat.  Bridge your hips up so your butt
          is raised.  Reach up with one arm alternately as if you're giving a high five.  Keep your hips
          elevated"
4) Plank Up - Start in a plank position on your elbows, then raise yourself up to a push up position by
          moving one arm and then the other.  Reverse the process to complete the rep.
5) Alternating Knee Dive - "Get into push-up position and raise one knee at a time to your chest and
          back
6) Single Leg Squat - "Stand on one leg, brace your abs, and lower yourself into a squat, going as
          deeply as you can."  Be extra cautious here if you have bad knees!
7) Windmills - Stand with your legs as wide apart as possible.  Raise your arms out to the sides. 
          Keeping your arms straight, like the propeller of a windmill, and knees locked, touch one hand to
          the opposite toe, rise back to the start, and repeat with other side to complete the rep
8)  Lunge + Twist - "Get into a lunge position with your right leg forward and hold a pillow in your
          outstretched arms.  Rotate your torso as far as you can to the right; return to the center.  Repeat
          for 30 seconds and then switch legs and rotate to the left."

          Again, I like the idea here of having a lot of core involvement in each exercise.  Doing the "High Five"s on the bed rather than the floor is like doing a push up or press with your hands or back on a swiss/bossu ball.  The unstable/squishy surface will require more balance and involve much more of the core and fine muscle fibers.

          So there you have it!  Using the principles outlined here you should be primed to draw up a workout wherever your busy schedule takes you.  Thanks for reading!

Note:  The Men's Fitness issues consulted here were October and November of 2011.  I do not have the Ross Boxing cite to give, but if you feel the need, please jump over to his website.


*This article was originally published in my "Fighting and Dieting" blog on 11/10/11.  It is re-published here in its original and unedited state.  However, I feel that it still contains useful information thought it may not accurately reflect my current training and dieting procedures, practices, and theoretical beliefs.


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Climbing Training Update 5 (11/7/2012)

Foundation (One Mile) Progress:
Previous Weeks (9/9 - 11/1/2012) - 100 ascents
This Week (11/2 - 11/7/2012) - ###### ascents
Total Progress - 110 / 110 (100 % Complete - 11/4/12)


New Goals (set 11/4/12 - Due 11/18/12):
Complete ALL climbing pyramids minus 5.10 lead (indoor - clean ONLY):
*See "Training Notes" for details

1. 5.10 - toprope
2. 5.8 x 2 - lead
3. 5.9 x 4 - lead
4. 5.9+ x 2 - lead

Performance / Timed Routes:
Toprope - Indoor - Clean - Highest Grade Completed - 5.9+
Toprope - Indoor - Dirty - Highest Grade Completed - 5.10
Lead - Indoor - Clean - Highest Grade Completed - 5.8+
Lead - Indoor - Dirty - Highest Grade Completed - 5.9+
*See "Training Notes" for information on timed routes


Grade Pyramids (Clean - Indoor - Toprope):
5.8 (1) - 9/21
5.8 (2, 3) - 9/24
5.8 (4, 5, 6) - 9/25
5.8 (7) - 9/27
5.8 (8) - 9/28
5.9 (1) - 10/10
5.9 (2) - 10/12
5.9 (3) - 10/15
5.9 (4) - 10/17
5.9+ (1) - 10/17
5.9+ (2) - 10/17
5.10 (1) - not yet completed


Grade Pyramids (Clean - Indoor - Lead):
5.8 (1) - 11/2
5.8 (2, 3, 4) - 11/4
5.8 (5, 6) - 11/5
5.8 (7, 8) - 11/7
5.9 x 4 - not yet completed
5.9+ (1) - 11/7
5.9+ (2) - not yet completed
5.10a (1) - not yet completed


Strength and Conditioning (11/2/12):
*See "Training Notes"


Long Yoga Session (11/3/12):
This Week's "long" yoga session (link)



Diet Notes:
           Not Enough Time (11/7/12) - The switch is still to recent to make a good gauge on the dietary changes I made late last week.  More information will be available in the next post.


Training Notes:
          Timed Routes (11/2/12) - I was using this method of measurement to monitor my progress throughout the early stages of my climbing when there was not a specific goal in play.  Now, as I approach the end of my "On Vertical Mile" goal, this measurement has lost its touch.  Now that I am a lead certified climber at my gym I have many other training options (other than speed climbing) should I hit a plateau.  For example, if I reach a stalling point on lead climbing then I can switch back to toprop to work on the problem.  If I reach a plateau toproping, I can switch gears to lead climbing to work on my endurance, technique, and grip.  The I have a tentative climbing trip scheduled for the week of 11/19 to scout some of the areas that I'll be climbing on February 2nd.  For the next couple weeks I'll be trying to fill out as much of the grade pyramids as I can.  Once I begin a 10 week training camp for February, I'll be working on various aspects of climbing and the goal of any particular mesocycle phase will be indicated in future posts.
          Strength and Conditioning (11/2/12) - I opted to try out my new lead certification and climb today rather than working in the weight room.  This will continue for the next couple weeks until I begin my official training camp.  As I am still in the base-building phase (I consider myself so), I want to focus as much on climbing for climbing's sake before I branch out to work on other supplemental attributes.
          One Mile Completed! (11/4/12) - Today was a big day.  I finished my mid-term goal of completing on mile of vertical climbs!  It took a lot of work and diligent training to get here, but things are only looking up!  I've got a bout a week and a half to go before taking a week off to evaluate my progress, go on a climbing trip to scout some routes for February, and draw up my 10-week training camp for a February 2nd climb at Sandrock, AL.  As far as "Performance Days" go, I've got two left before my Off Week and I'll just be trying to fill out as much of the "Grad Pyramids" as I can.  See below for new goal attribution.
          New Goals (11/4/12) - I realize that these are some pretty aggressive goals to cram into a week and a half, but I wanted something that would push me fairly hard before taking a week off.  Also, if a goal is too easily attainable it will stifle progress.  I prefer to shoot just out of reach and work from there based on results, rather than boost my ego.  With that said, if I can accomplish all of this, it will put me in a nice spot to gauge future training.  I'll be all set to test my limit on the "scouting" climbing trap as I'll have toproped up to a 5.10 and lead up to a 5.9+; thus I'll be in perfect position to test out leading on a 5.10.  Also, because of the new goals, my previously listed microcycle (weekly training schedule) is not really accurate as I'll be pushing things pretty hard the next couple weeks before a week off.
          First "dirty" 5.10 Toprope / Indoor (11/5/12) - While it was far from clean, I feel like this was a big accomplishment for me.  This route had been my plateau for a while and I couldn't even make it 20 ft up the 50 ft route.  I wasn't planning on trying this today, but a friend of mine who is a good climber talked me into it.  Some of the holds were really greasy so I had a total of 5 fall/slips/takes, but whether its 1 or 10, its still not a clean climb.  HOWEVER, it was completed.  It hurt, but I'm feeling good.
          Progress on "New Goals" (11/7/12) - Today I rounded out the 5.8 indoor  lead climbs and finished the first 5.9+.  Just to explain why I skipped the 5.9s, our indoor wall only has anchors set on two lines.  One line has a 5.8+ and a 5.10 offering, the other a 5.9+ and a 5.10.  For future reference I am undecided if I will look for a way to either make the 5.9+ a bit easier to drop it to a 5.9 or the 5.8+ a bit harder to raise it to a 5.9.  Another possible solution would be to "mock lead" a toproped 5.9 route (ie:  lots of slack in the line and phantom clipping procedure).  I'll confide in some of my teammates and post the results here.







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Sandwich and Light Snacking Guide

Originally published 4/12/2011 in "Fighting and Dieting."    

          The sandwich portion of this post comes from the May 2009 issue of Men's Health that I happened to read while seated in a waiting room.  The healthy snacking information comes from a recently posted article on bodybuilding.com.  Sources are at the bottom if you wish to check out the details.

The Art of a Healthy Sandwich:
Condiments from Best to Worst

1. Hummus
2. Honey Mustard
3. Guacamole
4. Dijon Mustard
5. Pesto
6. Miracle Whip
7. Italian Dressing
8. Ranch Dressing
9. Mayonnaise

Meat (1oz slice) Best to Worst

1. Turkey
2. Roast Beef
3. Honey Ham
4. Beef Pastrami
5. Salami
6. Bologna
7. Mortadella

Cheese (1oz slice) Best to Worst

1. Fresh Mozzarella
2. Swish
3. Sharp Cheddar
4. Provolone
5. Pepper Jack
6. American

Reasons:  Read Full Article (Link Below)


Easy Lunches and Healthy Snacks:

1. Chicken Wrap with a Whole-Wheat Tortilla
2. Dried Fruit, Pretzel, Almond, Pecan, Sunflower Seed = Trail Mix
3. Homemade Protein Peanut Butter Balls - "Mix 2 scoops of protein powder, 1/2 cup peanut butter, 1 cup of dry oats, and 1/4 cup dried cranberries.  Once a sticky mixture is formed (note that you may need to add a small amount of water to moisten), form into balls."
4. Beef Jerky and an Orange
5. Peanut Butter and Banana Roll-Ups (in whole-wheat pita or tortilla)
6. Protein Pancakes
7. Mexican Tuna - "Tuna is always a great grab-and-go protein source.  Make good use of it in your quest for lean mass.  To prepare this muscle building snack, open and drain can of tuna.  Combine with 1/4 cup salsa, 1/2 cup kernel corn, and chopped mushrooms, peppers, and carrots."
8. Apple with Low-Fat Cheese
9. Protein Shake with Raw Oats
10. Canned Salmon with Whole-Wheat Crackers
11. Cottage Cheese with Canned Fruit
12. A Protein Bar

 Source Info:

Men's Health, May 2009 (link)

Bodybuilding.com Article (link)



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Updated Diet and Training Plan (11/1/12)

Diet Changes:
          After some careful examination, I found that I needed to once again re-adjust my diet.  For the past week or two, I have tried implementing the bodybuilder practice of consuming fewer calories on non-training days than on training days.  However, this did not work so well for me because I am doing something active, other than daily activity like walking and a cycling commute, essentially every day of the week.  I think it is better for me, for the time being, to revert to my previously drawn up diet plan of consuming a consistent caloric intake every day of the week.  Consistency is simplicity, and simplicity leads to longevity.

          I have also talked in the past about different views on "cheating" on your diet.  These can range from strictly not allowing it, to a full on binge day, to one meal per week, to an occasional snack so long as you're eating "good" on "most" days of the week.  The problem with the "no cheating" method is that you need and deserve a break, not just physically, but psychologically as well.  The problem with an all day eat-a-thon is that a buffet of 6,000 calories is pretty hard to make up for.  One meal per week is a good option, one that I prefer for training camps.  However, for longer term plans, you do not want to find yourself craving and romanticizing about that glorious cheat meal mid week.  Lastly, the problem with semi-frequent but small cheats is that your body becomes conditioned to what you're feeding it and thus on "clean" days you're still craving the junk foods.

          For the purpose of this diet, I am going to re-establish the idea of simply "sticky-ing" a list of foods to consume each day as well as cheat day guidelines.  By "sticky-ing" I'm referring to the "sticky diets" I've mentioned before which are "stuck" to your fridge or microwave, or some place that you'll see it every day.  The simple list allows you to meet your daily nutritional needs without the constarint of having to eat a certain thing at a certain time and getting bored or burned out on the meal plan (the pre / during / post workout feeding is an exception).  This is a slight problem that I had in that I was eating so many meals per day (7) that I never felt really satiated by any of them.  This was sort of the antithesis of avoiding eating infrequent large meals because it slows your metabolism.  I'll also be implementing some tactics that I've found useful in Tim Ferriss's book "The Four Hour Body."  I have published posts in my old blog about trying the book's dieting procedure in full.  Those posts will soon be converted to this blog in the future.


Training Changes:
          I have recently been lead certified at my local climbing wall.  What this means is that I can lead climb routes rather than always having to toprope them.  Lead climbing is much harder than toproping. I wanted to have this option available as a form of insurance against plateaus.  What I mean is that if I've hit a plateau toproping (which I have) then I can switch over to lead climbing to crispen my technique and build my grip and climbing endurance.  The opposite is also true.  If I am stuck on a project that I can not lead, it would (I suspect) be beneficial to toprope the route with a spare piece of rope for you to "mock lead."  This lets you have the ease of toproping but allows you to go through the motions of lead climbing as well as become more familiar with the route.  Below you will find the updates to both my current Training and Diet practices.


Current Sticky Diet:
*This will make more sense when taken in the context of the below "Current Training"
** g/c = grams of carbohydrates, g/p = grams of protein, g/f = grams of fat

Updated 11/1/12

Fruit = 2 x 20g/c
Veggies = 4 x 4 - 6 g/c
Protein = 2 x 20g/p
Whey = 1 x 1 scoop*
Starch = 4 x 40g/c
Sugar = Granola Bar < 300 cal
8oz Fruit Juice+Green Tea+1TB Honey*
Nuts = 1 x 16g/f
* = Pre / During Workout
** Post Workout = Starch and Protein


Cheat Day (Tuesday)
-Unlimited for 4 - 6 hours
- 90sec exercise before and after each meal
- 16oz Fruit Juice instead of 8oz
- Eat spicy food before cheat period
Cold Showers:  Tues / Thurs / Fri
15min A.M. Yoga:  Mon / Wed / Fri / Sun
Supplements:
MetRX Nat. Whey - 1 scoop / day
Universal Animal Flex - 1 pack Thurs & Sun

Current Training Microcycle:

11/2 - 11/17/2012
Monday (AM):
15 min Yoga before breakfast

Monday (PM):
Warm Up - Moderate Toprope Route
Workout - 1 x Lead Clean; Practice Lead Limit
Cool Down - Stretch

Tuesday:  Rest / Cheat Day
*Cold Shower

Wednesday (AM):
15 min Yoga before breakfast

Wednesday (PM):
Warm Up - Traverse
Workout - 2 x Mock Lead Routes, 2 x Mod/Hard Toprope Routes
Cool Down - Stretch

Thursday:
Warm Up - Traverse
Workout - 2 x Mock Lead Routes, 2 x Toprope Downclimb Routes, 1 x Toprope Lead Project
Warm Down - Quick Yoga
*Cold Shower

Friday (AM):
15 min Yoga before breakfast

Friday (PM):
Warm Up - Traverse
Workout - Practice Lead Projects
Warm Down - Quick Yoga
*Cold Shower

Saturday:
30 - 60 min Vinyasa Yoga

Sunday:
Warm Up - Very Light Calisthenics
Workout - Work Lead Limit, 2 x Lead Clean Climbs
Cool Down - Stretch
*Cold Shower





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Climbing Training Update 4 (11/1/12)

Technical Data:
*See "Diet Notes" Section


Foundation (One Mile) Progress:
Previous Weeks (9/9 - 10/24/12) - 68 ascents
This Week (10/25 - 10/31/12) - 24 ascents
Total Progress - 100 / 110 (90.1 % Complete)



Performance / Timed Routes:
Highest Grade Completed (indoor / toprope / unclean) - 5.9+
Highest Grade Completed (indoor / toprope / clean) - 5.9+

Date / Location - Route / Setting / Grade / Time / Performance (time in sec. x adjusted grade)
9-26 / UWG - The Purp (TR) / Indoor / 5.8+ / Untimed / NA
9-30 / UWG - Green Holds (not clean) / Indoor / 5.9+ / Untimed / NA
10-10 / UWG - Hello Kitty (TR) / Indoor / 5.9 / 0:04:00 / 1221.6
10-10 / UWG - Crystallize (TR) / Indoor / 5.8 / 0:01:20 / 406.4
10-10 / UWG - Zebra Trout (TR) / Indoor / 5.8 / 0:01:28 / 447.04
10-17 / UWG - Hello Kitty (TR) / Indoor / 5.9 / 0:02:40 / 814.4
10-17 UWG - Cotton Candy (TR) / Indoor / 5.9+ / Untimed / NA
10-17 / UWG - Green Holds (TR) / Indoor / 5.9+ / Untimed / NA
11-1 / *See "Training Notes"

Grade Pyramids - Greenpoint:

5.8 (1) - 9/21
5.8 (2, 3) - 9/24
5.8 (4, 5, 6) - 9/25
5.8 (7) - 9/27
5.8 (8) - 9/28
5.9 (1) - 10/10
5.9 (2) - 10/12
5.9 (3) - 10/15
5.9 (4) - 10/17
5.9+ (1) - 10/17
5.9+ (2) - 10/17

Strength and Conditioning (10/26/12):
Warm Up (15 min):
1 x Mod/Hard Route
Practice Projects

Workout:
500m Row - rest 1/2 completion time
Mountain Climbers for Rowing time - rest 1/2 completion time
Repeat 2 x (Row: 02:08 - 161 watts; 02:12 - 140 watts; 02:00 - 205 watts
Rest 5 min - Then
4 x 30 sec work / rest - DB GobletSquat-to-PushPress - rest in standing position
- done @ 2 x 15lb DBs
rest 30 sec after round
repeat once

Cool Down:  Stretch

Diet Notes:
          No More Statistical Info (11/1/12) - As noted in the top of this blog, the "technical data" is missing from this post.  The reason for this is that I do not wish to continue tracking such things on a weekly basis.  There are a few reasons for this.  Firstly, after analyzing the data I believe that simply gaining experience on the rock wall is the largest contributor to my improvements in climbing.  Thus, decreasing my body mass (which has been slow at best) has played a significant role thus far in my training.  Secondly, upon further examination of my diet data I found that my body fat was decreasing faster than my overall mass.  That is all well and good, but not what I was attempting to do in this process.  Rather, I think that it will take a much longer time than a weekly basis for changes in my muscle construction to take place.  This data section will not be gone forever, but will only be included in the occasional update.  Thirdly, tracking such things on a weekly basis is a sure fire way to burn out if you're planning on doing it for the rest of your life.  I, as a competitive athlete, have been kind of stuck in that 6-week mindset, that I'm constantly moving from one "training camp" to another.  Over the summer when I took a break from competing I was venturing into more long term sustainable nutritional practices.  I will look back into some things that worked for me in the past and will work better for longer term goal; such as a climbing trip scheduled 10-12 weeks away.
           A New Diet (11/1/12) - Hinted above, I will be implementing some old favorite tricks and tips into my current nutritional plan.  In general the nutrient ratios and such will stay the same, but there are some other "gimmicks" that I found were effective if not physically  then at least psychologically for the duration of the diet.  There will be a separate post when these changes are finalized and implemented.

Training Notes:
          Lead Certified (11/1/12) - At the University of West Georgia rock wall you are required to pass a certification test administered by the Coordinator of Outdoor Recreation before being allowed to lead climb at the facility.  Today was a big day for me as I successfully passed the exam!  I'm super stoked about this!  I won't get into my personal disagreements with the instructor's teaching style, but with all said and done, I can now practice lead climbing indoors.  What really excites me about this is that I can practice a new dimension of my climbing.  Many consider lead climbing to be the first step of "real climbing."  I'll still do a fair amount of top roping on days when I do not want to push as hard, though leading will be my primary training method from here out.  Top roping still has its advantages, for example; if there is a route you've been stuck on and can't climb clean leading, then you can work on it toprope to become more familiar with the route and do a "mock lead" practicing the movements and added endurance associated with lead climbing.  I'll get a new post up soon with my updated diet (See above) and training routine.





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Exercise: A Means to an End

     A republished post from my archived "Fighting and Dieting" blog.  The post discusses how and why the function of exercising is not to burn calories (that is an added benefit) but to condition the body to a certain stimulus.  The article was originally published on March 5, 2011.  I have included some updated comments that are printed in italic font.  I also included some pictures to make the long text more digestable.

Exercise:  A Means to an End

          There seems to be a lot of debate in the strength and conditioning world over whether different set/rep/load combinations build different types of muscle.  For example, some people thing that low weight loads with extremely high repetitions build long skinny muscles while extremely heavy loads for a small number of repetitions builds only bulk muscle.  This is really nonsense, and I will explain why.
          Your physique is how the shape of your body looks.  The single most determining factor in your physique is your DIET.  It is NOT the number of sets or reps or the size of the load.  It is your diet.  Your diet has a far more profound impact than any other thing you will do to improve your physique.  I would almost go as far as to say that any other factor combined (genetics included).  As I have said earlier posts, your weight is determined by calories consumed vs. calories burned, that's it. (Nov. 1, 2012 update:  There ARE other things involved, such as neurochemical responses and thermodynamics that have a significant role in the weight loss / gain procedure).  If you want to loose weight, you need to burn more calories than you eat; and if you want to gain weight than you need to eat more than you burn.  Simple as that (see above edit).  However, your body composition (what accounts for your body weight:  muscle, fat, bone, water, etc...) is determined by WHAT you eat.  Without going into too much detail, if all you eat is butter then whether you loose or gain weight you will still look like butter; the same is true if all you eat is steak.  The concept that "you are what you eat" is mostly true with the exception that your body NEEDS fat, carbohydrates, and protein (and a variety of other micronutrients, vitamins, and minerals).  They are all important necessities for your diet.

          But this post isn't about dieting, its about exercise.  While different exercises do change your physique as directly as exercising in general, they do serve a very specific purpose.  The easiest way to explain this is to say that you should "practice how you will play."  If you want to be a faster sprinter, then you need to sprint.  If you want to be a better tennis player, you need to get more sets in on the court.  If you have decided that you would like to lift weights to increase your athletic performance then there are a few things you should also realize.

          While different exercises do not (adequately or appropriately) determine your physique, what they do do is condition your body to be more tolerant of a certain stimulus.  What does that mean?  It means that if you work explosive exercises like power cleans, you will develop very strong white (fast-twitch) muscle fibers while your red (slow-twitch) muscle fibers will remain the same or possibly weaken.  (Use it or loose it, it is difficult enough to maintain multiple energy systems, strengthening focus on one, by default, means less attention to another.  There is also no mention here of gray muscle fibers, those used for reflexive actions.)  This is why I call exercise a means to an end.  The exercise that you choose to do should derive some sort of skill that you will be able to use when you perform.  Obviously if you just want to "live healthier" then you have a lot of play in your exercise routine.  If you are a body builder, then you also have a lot of play but concentrate more on working isolation (one muscle group at a time) exercises. (This volume training is thought to promote anabolism after severely breaking down a specific muscle group per session).  If you are a power lifter then it is doing you no good to work on muscle endurance, you need to keep the reps low and the load high to condition your body for your competitions.  If you are an endurance athlete (runners for example) weights can still help you but you will want to keep the weight very low and the reps very high as this is how your body will be expected to perform when put to the test, with a low load and very long duration.  Football players often want to brag about their bench press (one rep max) when in reality they should be working explosive movements (for multiple short durations with minimal rest between efforts) such as power cleans, jerk presses, power snatches, etc... Because unless you plan on getting knocked flat on your *** you will never lie on your back to push your opponent around.

          Are you getting the idea yet?  Practice how you play.  Exercise conditions your muscles and body to a specific stimulus.  If endurance is your sport, your training should be long and enduring.  If you need to be explosive, then you should train explosive exercises.  If you're a fighter, then fight.  Every aspect of your training should incorporate some skill that you will use in your athletic performance.  Even for bodybuilders, as much as I despise the idea, if you "just want to look good" then the numbers shouldn't mean a thing, appearance does.  If you are just trying to live healthier, then you don't need to worry about numbers or appearance, simply trust in your diet and your exercise as purely a means of caloric expenditure. (This is a bit off.  It should be edited to include "trust in your research and your diet.  Losing weight, caloric expenditure, may not be the goal of a person desiring to live healthy, rather content and quality of those foods consumed should be paramount.  Learn, adapt, live.)  Practice how you play.  Good luck all!





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Recipe Quickies: Low Carb "Cake" & Homemade "Sports Drink"

         This post is just a quickie  to give a couple nifty recipes that I've been using for my post-workout nutrition (w/in 20min of finishing workout).  There is a low-carb high-protein cake recipe that I've been using for quite some time that tastes a little "eggy", but has the texture of a slightly stiffer sponge cake, you can flavor it as you like.  The second is a homemade alternative to store bought sports drinks.  When we think of what sports drinks are designed to do, they serve two primary functions.  They A) replenish glycogen (short term energy stored in the body) via simple carbohydrates (sugar); and B) replenish electrolytes (calcium, sodium, magnesium) which help maintain fluid distribution throughout the body.  As the Gatorade slogan goes, "you sweat more than just water."


Protein Cake:
*Makes 4 servings
4 Servings (usually 40-50g) of Liquid Eggs
4 Scoops Whey Protein (brand of choice)
1 pack (4 servings) Sugar Free Instant Pudding (flavor of choice)
1 tsp baking powder
Cinnamon or other spice to taste
          Directions:  Preheat oven to 400 degrees.  Mix all ingredients in large bowl, you will want to add a sparing amount of water (or milk) to think the batter to cake-like consistency.  Spray an 8x8 cake pan with non-stick spray.  Pour batter into pan and bake for 15 minutes, check for done-ness.  It will probably need a few more minutes, 5 or so, for a total baking time of ~20 min.  Remove from oven and let cool.  Cut into quarters and there you go!  A low-carb, high-protein, "cake" that is good for you and can help with sweet-tooth cravings or be part of your post-workout feeding.
          Note:  You can also use this similar recipe to make pancakes.  It is a basic recipe for a high protein, low carb dough / batter that you can choose to bake, fry, or cook as you please.



Homemade Sports Drink:
*Makes 4 servings
32oz Fruit Juice of Choice (I like Grape, Apple, Grapefruit, or Cranberry)
4 Tbp Honey
4 Tbp Apple Cider Vinegar
3 Tbp Lemon Juice
1 Tbp Lime Juice
4 tsp Baking Soda
1 Green Tea Bag
1 tsp Sea Salt (optional)
          Directions:  Combine 8 - 10 oz. of fruit juice with the vinegar, lime juice, lemon juice, and sea salt (if you choose to add it).  Heat or boil in micr owave.  While that is going on, add the baking soda to the remaining fruit juice in a 64oz jug or bottle.  Add honey to the hot juice and stir until it is dissolved. Then add the hot juice and tea bag to the container.  Shake well.  Let sit over night in the refrigerator.
          Note:  When ready to serve, add ~8oz of the mixture to the bottle you take to they gym and add about 24 oz of water to it.  This is not necessary, but it helps to thin out the very vinegary taste of the mixture.


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